remembering in St Jean de Luz

In St Jean de Luz today everything stopped at 1100. Around four hundred people met with an army squadron at the war memorial. A band accompanied several Basque hymns before the mayor addressed the gathering. Police stopped traffic while the bells tolled the eleventh hour. After the silence local school children read the names of those Basques from St Jean de Luz who have fallen fighting for the country over the last century. The squadron stood rooted throughout. Comparing the children reading out the names and those in uniform carrying guns there really seemed to be very little age difference.

I recently made a visit to Guernica/Gernika. It is a fairly average looking town that hides well the true importance and horrors of its history. For centuries the seat of the Biscayan assembly met under a giant oak tree in the centre of town. It is constantly replanted as the parent withers and has become symbolic of the traditional rights of the Basque people as a whole. The trunk of one of the original trees is now protected while its offspring take root nearby.

On April 26, 1939 Francisco Franco, frustrated by the Basques' refusal to meet his demands, used the Nazi luftwaffe to annihilate the town. The Germans used the sortie as an experiment for their terrifying incendiary bombs. The unarmed population had no hope of escape. Those that survived the bombs were mown down by pursuing fighter planes.

The massacre is remembered in Picasso's painting and more recently in a wonderful book by Dave Boling, both called Guernica.

Basque of the day:- tree :: arbola

St Jean de Luz waves

The sun came back today in St Jean de Luz, albeit fleetingly, somebody forgot to tell the sea that the storm was over though. Looking back up into the mountains I caught a glimpse of the first snow of winter. I'd hate to have been caught up there over the last week.

As I walked along the clifftops I thought about the coming week. The 70th anniversary of the beginning of WWII. It reminded me that St Jean de Luz was heavily occupied during the war and paid its own price.

Nazis came and went, drinking in the same watering holes used the C17th pirates that went before them and the tourists that came after. Perched high along the clifftops are inumerable German pill boxes, each ominously facing out to sea. Some are tiny, others enormously labyrinthine. They have been blocked up now but it is good they remain to remind us of what could have been.

During WWII the famous Comet Line passed through the Basque country into St Jean de Luz. Grounded airmen shot down behind enemy lines were helped to travel secretly through France by the Resistance. Once in St Jean de Luz they made their way through the mountain passes into Spain before being ferried back home to Britain. Many are reported to have stayed in the rooms above Le Corsair, the supposed Nazi drinking club of choice. It is a good bar.

Basque of the day:- to have a narrow escape :: ozta ihes egitea lortu

gusty St Jean de Luz

The weather is showing no signs of abating in St Jean de Luz. Unless you are an extreme sports fanatic, the surf is excellently dangerous, it is wiser to be indoors at the moment. I had little sleep as my wooden shutters were taunted endlessly throughout the night by the untiring gales. Thankfully the downpour didn't commence until I was back from my early morning bread run. I have now battened down the hatches, cranked up the heating and am not intending to leave my candlelit warmth for the remains of the day.

Basque of the day:- storm :: marruma egin

weather in St Jean de Luz

The storm in St Jean de Luz is beginning to become fun. After spending the last few days joking with locals that the weather had become very Scottish, today I had to insist that it was most definitely Basque. The sun was streaming first thing this morning. Walking along the coast I could see a huge weather front out at sea. One brave soul was out windsurfing in the gusting winds. The moment the tide changed it must have given a shout to the front. 'Oi up, time for you to unleash hell!' The weather responded immediately, racing in and within moments the tranquil landscape had been transformed by the tempest. Walls of rain drove in off the Atlantic and people huddled in cafes seeking shelter. I assume the windsurfer made it back to shore.

We do get fantastic weather here. Good and bad. Being nestled in the far corner of the Bay of Biscay, weather coming in from the Atlantic is coralled along the north of Spain and down the west of France. Here it hits the Pyrenees and all hell can break loose. The seasons can be extreme. Big snowstorms followed by raging heat followed by hurricanes (seriously, we had one in January). Locals joke that in any given you day you may need to change your mode of dress five times, it's not far from the truth. The biggest plus is that the mountains, sea and forests are rich with life.

Basque of the day: what will the weather be like tomorrow? :: nolako eguraldia izango dugu bihar?

matador in St Jean de Luz

Cultural pursuits are back underway in St Jean de Luz. I have just returned from three hours of dancing. Now that sounds all good well were it a disco after several bottles of wine. However, when it's at lunchtime, involves flamenco and rumba, and means I have to pretend to be a matador in front of twenty women it is a far more daunting prospect!

Having graduated (without honour) from the beginners sevillanas class I am now being taught dancing way above my ability. Being the shape of an ex-rugby type doesn't help either. I still do the sevillana class as a warm up but the flamenco rumba is where it's at. I get to hold my shoulders back, click my fingers lots and look overtly proud as a bevvy of lasses do their stuff around me. Top stuff!

The only challenge is the actual dancing. I've never been particularly shy and like to think I have a modicum of rhythm. Today Fabienne demanded I master clicking my heels three times a second with each foot one after the other. I can just about master two a second, three is just silly. Next week I am getting to dance with a hat, whatever that entails?!

I'm not sure if it's my age but after class each Friday I have the same sort of high buzz I used to get after playing rugby or a good days skiing. The local flamenco season is warming up and from this month on there are soirees most weekends. If you'd told me I'd be doing this and enjoying it so much when I was still working in London I'd never have believed you.

Basque of the day:- shall we dance? :: dantzatu nahi al duzu?

St Jean de Luz paddling

It is still raining hard in St Jean de Luz. That's three days now. Given there was a full moon when it started the chances are the dour weather will stick around for the lunar cycle. The winds are whipping up too, excellent waves. I fear another surfing adventure coming on.

Struggling a bit today. Had a boys night last night to watch a football match, Lyon v Liverpool. Was torn. I prefer French teams normally but the wife's family are from Liverpool. Luckily it ended in a draw. Am not normally a football fan but it was a good excuse to get to know the chaps better. Will opt for a rugby match next time.

The local children are back to school today after their mid-term holiday. They are relishing being able to jump in so many puddles, much to the consternation of their mothers. You can't beat jumping in puddles but I am clearly not as expert as these kids.

Basque of the day:- puddle :: putzu

November in St Jean de Luz

I have now been living in St Jean de Luz for a year. I have had more adventures in that time than I could have imagined. I am also astonished that in the course of a year so many people have visited Basque Bylines and from so many places (over 60 countries at last count). Thank you!

Nothing is more cyclical in the Basque country than the weather. If it is warm for a couple of days with an increasingly strong, balmy southerly wind then it is bound to rain hard very soon. Couple that to the month of November and you can guarantee lots of precipitation. So far this month has not bucked that trend. Saturday and Sunday on the beach, the rest of the week beneath a wooly jumper. The forecast won't encourage tourists either.

Still no news on whether our demonstration in Bayonne resulted in success. There has been a large run on 'meat' pies in one of the butchers following last week's pigeon cull, I am sure this is wholly unrelated.

Basque of the day:- anniversary :: urtemuga

pigeon patrol in St Jean de Luz

Today the pigeon catchers were out in St Jean de Luz. There is a problem by the end of the summer with the flying beasties. They are nothing like their countryside cousins who are clean living and taste delicious. The urban variety are simply scavengers and even I wouldn't eat them.

After laying their trap, poisoned grain, the trappers played a waiting game. They waited, and waited. The trap was laid some two hours ago and still the pigeons sit in the trees above. Even they seem to know there is no such thing as a free lunch.

Basque of the day:- pigeon :: urzo

art in St Jean de Luz

Whilst walking along the coast near St Jean de Luz the other day I got a bit of a shock. Rounding a headland I was greeted by a hundred large jellyfish floating in the air. Well that's what I think they were meant to be. Attached to enormous poles the jellies were each some fifteen metres in length and swayed gently in the clifftop breeze. I think there is a planned invasion of the Basque country afoot. Wiser thoughts on the subject welcomed.

Basque of the day:- jellyfish :: marmoka

marching near St Jean de Luz

Yesterday some ten thousand people massed near St Jean de Luz in the town of Bayonne. The demonstration was to defy new plans to build a tunnel through the Pyrenees and in so doing, destroy many villages' soul. It was a successful march that wound through the delightful old town. Given sensitivities over all things Basque demonstrators had been urged not to display overt Basque sentiment for fear of rousing passions. A rather feeble proclamation.


Despite the authority's efforts, and although we demonstrators refrained from politically motivated Basque chants, there were a myriad of large signs in Basque, traditional music was played as we walked and many people were speaking the language (I had to explain why I wasn't able to which was a challenge).


There were of course some politically motivated people in the crowd distributing leaflets about Basque people who were being wrongfully held in prison. In any other circumstance I would have thought them militant but during the last century there have been thousands of people wrongfully imprisoned or worse still, disappear. The Spanish and French governments have done their best to expel all things Basque but the harder they try the stronger the culture becomes.


Basque of the day:- demonstrastion :: manifestazio

Basque rally

St Jean de Luz has been a hive of activity this week. Everybody has been coralling friends, family and neighbours. This afternoon as many Basque people as possible (plus friends) will descend on Bayonne. We will be demonstrating against the wanton destruction of countryside by those who place efficiency before heritage, euros before respect. If building of the proposed LGV goes ahead I fear that it will cause problems the authorities hadn't wagered on and will lose them much support of the people.

IF YOU ARE IN THE BASQUE COUNTRY TODAY

PLEASE GO TO BAYONNE CENTRE FOR 1700

VOICE YOUR SUPPORT!!

Basque of the day:- LGV :: boom boom

breakfast in St Jean de Luz

The first hour of sunlight is one of my favourite times in St Jean de Luz. I try to get out for a run just before the sun rises, heading up a sleepy Rue Gambetta, past Ravel's house, back along the promenade and up to the little hill at St Barbe that sticks out into the ocean. If I time it right I catch a wonderful glimpse deep into the Pyrenees while the air remains crisp and clear.

Having spent most of my life living in cities it is still a shock to see such vast views everywhere I look. When I lived in cities I was concerned with my immediate vicinity, down here I have so much to take in that any concerns readily dissolve. It is a joy.

St Jean de Luz is nestled deep in the Basque country, right in the corner of the Bay of Biscay where France meets Spain. There are often many aeroplane contrails lining the sky, and they all seem to take a similar change of direction directly above. I imagine such a perpendicular geography makes an easily identifiable landmark, reminding pilots of their route.

First thing in the morning it is a busy route for long-haul flights from Spain, Africa and northern Europe but thankfully they are all flying so high there is no noise pollution, only Etch'a'sketch scribblings. All those people heading to so many destinations oblivious of the worlds beneath them.

Basque of the day:- big :: handi

St Jean de Luz kindergarten

A friend from St Jean de Luz seconded me into babysitting duties today. Rather than sit around playing a game or watching a movie I took her children for a walk up the nearby mountain, La Rhune. After packing a wee picnic we set forth carrying two sets of binoculars in search of monsters and dragons. I quickly realised that children have significantly more energy than adults, I was exhausted by the time we got onto the hill proper.

The mountain is exactly the shape a child would draw: conical with jagged rocky edges. The weather was fine and we made good progress. Autumn has finally arrived and the trees offered a magnificent display of burnt reds and oranges. Butterflies flitted by readying themselves for winter, gathering sustenance and seeking shelter.

La Rhune is home to an abundance of wild ponies. They are very inquisitive creatures. They are also plentiful, I had expected to perhaps see one or two, I counted at least twenty. I fear I may have caused a problem by proclaiming they were the dragons we were seeking, the youngest of the children was very tearful and hid behind me whenever a pony came near. I was a little wary and made sure we kept in front of them, they looked like they pack quite a kick.

The views from the mountain are terrific. On one side the Atlantic stretches into the distance. with the coastal towns of Biarritz, St Jean de Luz and Hendaye clinging to the edge of its shores. On the other side the Pyrenees rise into the skies. It is quite a breathtaking contrast.

We walked close to the message that was burned into the mountain-side demanding that the authorities resist ruining the landscape by building a tunnel straight through the mountain. How anyone could even contemplate destroying this astounding beauty is beyond me. I just hope that the demonstration in Bayonne this Saturday makes those in power think again.

The Basque country continues to surprise me, it is one of the most beautiful regions on earth. We returned home safely to hot chocolate and cookies, but no sign of any monsters.

Basque of the day:- beauty :: edertasun

hotbed in St Jean de Luz

A friend from St Jean de Luz has recently had a successful operation. I went to visit them in hospital yesterday. Winding my way through the labyrinthe of corridors I eventually arrived at the wing I was seeking. As I tried to enter, two enormous armed and balaclava wearing guards ordered me to halt. After padding me down and eventually believing my reason for being there they let me pass.

Walking up the corridor towards my friend's room I counted a further eight armed guards each carrying huge machine guns. At the far end of the passage I could see a balcony where a further six gun-toting special forces agents were having a cigarette break. I think I was worse for wear than my friend when I finally arrived at their room. I readily enquired what was going on.

It transpires that the previous night an alleged member of ETA had been shot by the special forces and was receiving medical treatment in a nearby room. Fearing reprisal or escape the armed guards were taking no chances with their charge, mounting a full-scale 24-hour vigil. I didn't see the other patient but the guards were extremely courteous, once they believed me harmless, and I think the nurses were enjoying having a bevy of muscle-clad men milling around. Most importantly my friend is well on the road to full recovery. Outside the hospital a myriad of television networks from France and Spain were reporting developments.

I don't think this sort of thing happens on Harley Street.

Basque of the day:- hospital :: ospitale

mountainous warnings in St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz is experiencing a renewed spate of heightened political sentiment. France and Spain have long been known as world leaders for fast, efficient train links. A proposed LGV (the new TGV) link between Paris-Bordeaux and Madrid is set to be developed. This link will run down the coast past St Jean de Luz (great news) and into the Spanish plains. Given the small obstacle that is the Pyrenees planning has come to a stop. However, one lunatic developer has come up with a plan that seems to be gathering momentum.

In order to save a mammoth six minutes from the journey time he has proposed to cut a huge tunnel through La Rhune, the mountain that stands at the end of the Pyrenean chain. The tunnel will be fed by enormous viaducts scraping their way across the countryside. The plans would utterly devastate many Basque villages, completely ruin a wonderful heritage landscape and dramatically increase noise pollution. The plans are reported to cost some €300m (which probably means €0.5bn). There is a perfectly robust train line already in place that currently carries the TGV. What is it with people in local government/council, from which form of slug have they evolved?

As soon as the plans were made public a group of intrepid campaigners climbed La Rhune. They wrote a very strong message against the plans in petrol across the mountain-side, then set fire to it. An enormously dramatic statement and effect. All night long the four hundred metre wide beacon screamed "NO!, NO!, NO!" This weekend I am taking part in further demonstrations in Bayonne and urge any locals who read this to attend.

I am in favour of excellent rail links. It amazes me how good and cost effective an experience travelling by rail in France is, especially after having taken sub-par trains for years in the UK. Once all the plans are in place it would take two hours to get to Paris or Madrid, three to Barcelona and four to Morocco. However, nature and culture have been here far longer and are infintely more important than convenience. A mountain is worth more than six minutes of efficiency savings.

I spoke to one local about their opinions of the plans. They suggested that if the plans went ahead there would probably be a little bit of boom-boom. I enquired what this was. It seems to be the polite way of suggesting terrorist action might be rekindled (the last time was when McDonalds threatened to open).

Basque of the day:- nature :: nolakotasun

surf's up in St Jean de Luz

One of St Jean de Luz' sub cultures has allowed me into its midst in recent days. With summer over, autumn winds and weather systems are forcing bigger waves onto the Basque coast. My neighbour insisted I join him and his friends to learn the way of the board. Now I knew it wasn't going to be easy but had figured the difficulty would primarily be technical not physical. How wrong I have been.

My first day was spent largely taking waves while lying flat in a press-up position. By lunchtime of day two I was halfway up and by the end of that day I managed to stand, albeit for only a couple of seconds. Today was meant to be day three but I am walking like a robot and can't lift my arms above my waist.

Now I had always sort of smirked at the whole surf thing. That whole 'being at one with nature man' thing. However, when you are sat on your board out at sea, watching and waiting for a wave to take it is a unique experience. Seriously big waves and serious amounts of fun!

I have been very fortunate in taking my first waves on one of the biggest beaches in Europe which runs some 200km from Bordeaux to the Spanish border. An enormous forest protects the beaches from the inland towns. Finding a desolate beach with excellent waves is not difficult. We were on our own the whole time we were there. Looking north and south up the beach, nothing and noone. Magical.

Basque of the day:- surf :: olatu-apar

relaxed St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz was a hive of activity yesterday. The lads walking the streets mulitplied into a full band, Friday's Breton piper piped happily, a baroque choir sang in the street, antique cars drove through town and the church hummed with classical music. Unlike St Jean de Luz I took it easy, other than buying myself a large cake as a Sunday treat.

Today has seen a return of the fine weather. The beach is nice and quiet after the summer so on days like today the Luziens take full advantage, congregating on the sand to catch up on local gossip and enjoy a glass or two of wine.

I went for a lovely stroll this evening ending up at the far end of the beach. Here the Nivelle river flows out to the Atlantic. On one side is St Jean de Luz, on the other the town of Ciboure. It is a lovely wee place that has less of the pomp of its neighbour but is equally charming and resolutely Basque. It is also where Maurice Ravel was born (in the large stone house pictured that looks less Basque than the others).

Basque of the day:- quiet :: isil

St Jean de Luz floods

It has been raining hard in St Jean de Luz. Just like everything else, when it rains here it rains to excess. Bayonne and Biarritz have reported widespread flooding and the Nivelle is looking dangerously high near the port. All this in twenty four hours. Early this morning, not at all put off by the clement weather, groups of local lads walked around town playing music to rouse better spirits (see below).

Another unique experience last night. Our choir was giving a concert at a hotel in the nearby town of Ascain. The purpose was to entertain a group from Britanny. The group responded to almost every song by playing their version of bagpipes and dancing to traditional Breton music. The entertainment took place during the course of a lengthy dinner for around 100 people. My singing was probably under par due to excess red wine but it was good fun and I felt rather privileged to be sharing this experience as an outsider.

I am not somebody who is a fan of such things but the world's longest running soap opera, Guiding Light, has come to an end. What high brow entertainment is replacing it? An extra edition of some random quiz show called Let's Make a Deal. American television is so cultured...

Basque of the day:- culture :: kultura

dancing in St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz once again held its breath as my Flamenco course recommenced. I am in the equivalent of big school now, being the hardcore flamenco man that I am, but went to the beginners class today to remind myself how to move. The ever wonderful and omnipresent Fabiana sasheyed around the floor showing newcomers how to move their hips to the rythym.

A couple of friends were doing as I was and we agreed to stick together for our first day in big school. It was a blast. After an hour of full-on flamenco practice (on top of the beginners hour) Fabiana decided to shake things up and had us busting salsa grooves and latin moves.

Once again I am the only chap, why beggers belief. If the single men of St Jean de Luz could get over themselves they would find a myriad of delightful girls and ladies (of all ages). Being a happily married man I am deemed 'safe' so find myself very much in demand as a dance partner, you've got to love it!

From the sublime to the ridiculous. This evening I, and ten other chaps, are giving a concert of Basque song up in the mountains. None of this ever happened when I was working with numbers.

Basque of the day:- flirt :: pertxenta

singing in St Jean de Luz

Clubs and associations in St Jean de Luz have started coming back to life after the summer. My choir started up again this evening. I had been ardently practicing Basque and French over the summer but was completely thrown after trying to keep up with the guys as they chatted speedily after three months apart. I know I am far from perfect on the French front but I am usually able to understand what people are saying, tonight I had no idea. The guys have all grown up knowing each other which while it gives our choir a brotherly feel also means they have their own secret language. I gave up and sat silently, utterly bemused, as tales of drunkness and beautiful girls were recounted (I think?).

Tomorrow is a busy day. I have coffee with a friend in the morning, lunch with another, Flamenco starts after lunch, coffee with another friend in the afternoon and we (the choir) are singing at a festival in the mountains tomorrow evening. People working in offices may moan about how busy their schedules are but they haven't a clue how jammed the social scene is in St Jean de Luz, they have it easy...

Basque of the day:- busy :: lanpetu

St Jean de Luz coffee break

St Jean de Luz has the type of cafe culture you read about in books. In the small squares at either end of Rue Gambetta there are a variety of establishments to choose from, not to mention the myriad of others in adjacent streets. All thrive with a mix of local and visiting trade. Beret wearing gentlemen sip coffee amidst heated debate over the latest sporting results. Younger business-people take a quick caffeine boost or bite to eat between rendezvous. Couples linger over lunch and gossipers gossip. Weaving between them all the uniformed waiters ply their dark arts. The cafe is not a place to rush; sit in the corner, order your preferred choice, relax, observe. I sometimes lose a day there.

Basque of the day:- cafe :: kafetegi

the music plays on in St Jean de Luz

The music never stops in St Jean de Luz. Just as the summer season came to an end the music festival began. Town is filled with musicians carrying their instruments to and fro with music pouring out of the various venues night and day.

Now I love music as much as the next person but there is an accordian player who has played outside my office window from 0900 till 1800 for the past week (listen below). Much as I try to imagine I am sitting in some Parisian cafe on the left bank musing over some philosophical conundrum or other the overriding question that occupies my mind is where I stored my bow and arrow? Bless him, he is very talented.

Basque of the day:- annoying :: gogaikarri

executive stress in St Jean de Luz

Another particularly difficult day in St Jean de Luz. After being rudely awakened by the sunshine flooding through my bedroom window I looked out towards the mountains in search of clouds. There were none. Taking advantage of such a day I called my good friend Michelle who I assumed would be finding today equally difficult.

Driving up the coast some six kilometres we settled at a little table next to the beach in Ilbarritz at the wonderful La Plancha restaurant. A starter of crevettes and guacamole was followed by sea bream in garlic before a large chocolate brownie with ice cream arrived at our table. Between mouthfuls and conversation we watched as intrepid surfers braved the Atlantic's swell. By the time coffee arrived we had been there three hours, certainly too late to begin any real work.

Heading in land we travelled behind La Rhune passing through a host of delightful Basque villages. The sun warmed us as the wind swept away any remnants of weekend cobwebs. We ventured on through the Spanish village of Vera de Bidasoa before arriving at the port town of Hondarribia, some ten kilometres south of St Jean de Luz. In search of a digestif we had forgotten it was Monday and finding an establishment open was an almost impossible challenge. We settled for a seat on the promenade and imagined the many battles that had been fought here since the C14th. Fishing boats glided past, brave swimmers swam the currents and an elderly gent took a shower using a tap and plastic bottle. Home, exhausted, we parted company and agreed that Tuesday is a far better day to start the working week.

Basque of the day:- tomorrow :: bihar

Willy Wonka in St Jean de Luz

Today we move outside of St Jean de Luz. Cadbury, the UK chocolate company that inspired Willy Wonka, has been under fire this week from Kraft of America (they make processed cheese and stuff) who made a hostile bid for the company.

The British do love their chocolate. Locals in St Jean de Luz are often amazed at the plethora of confectionery on offer in UK shops. Basques are also chocolate experts. They claim they were importing cocoa, making and exporting chocolate before anyone else in Europe, even the Belgians.

Cadbury is one of those rare brands that people grow up loving and not just people in the UK. Even the French have a soft (centred) spot for the company and are aghast at the American overture (I can't imagine the French government allowing this to have even reached the table were it a French company). Despite centuries of war and verbal wrangling chocolate seems to be finally bringing people together on a united front. I am sure Willy Wonka and his oompa loompas would be impressed. I also suspect that if John Cadbury had a time machine in his shop back in 1824 he would have a wry smile on his face.

It is a robust, innovative company that makes my favourite treat (Dariy Milk), may the ghosts of Bournville and Wonka's chocolate factory rise up and safeguard its heritage.

Basque of the day:- defence :: defendatze

fishy St Jean de Luz

The fishermen of St Jean de Luz do work hard. No matter what time of day (or night) you walk past the small Basque fishing port there is always something going on; boats coming and going, others unloading their catches, bickering bartering, preparations and so forth. The town has a rich history in the fishing trade. From the C13th there are reports of whaling from the port. These intrepid adventurers sailed as far as Greenland in search of whales and seals.

It is said that when Colombus first arrived in the Americas the natives spoke a form of Basque implying he was far from the first visitor to those shores. When the Dutch and English began to commercialise fishing (whaling in particular) it is to Basque fishermen they turned for expert guidance.

The port of St Jean de Luz is still thriving and very active. Freshly caught fish is on sale daily; from squid to lobster to bream. Unfortunately most of the whales were killed off at the beginning of the last century but there is said to be a growing population that visits the Bay of Biscay annually.

Basque of the day:- fish :: arrain

comparisons in St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz basked in wonderful sunshine today. It really was the perfect late summer's day.

Apparently, in St Jean de Luz some 70% of bread bought in shops is made on site, in the UK it is reportedly nearer 3%. Everybody seems to eat a lot of white bread in these parts but they appear considerably slimmer than people in the UK. Everybody in these parts seems to drink continuously and more than half smoke yet the average person seems to live a lot longer than in the UK (for a small town there seems to be a lot of people living beyond 100). Any thoughts why? Aliens?

Basque of the day:- question :: galde

Sunday roast in St Jean de Luz

A sweltering Sunday in St Jean de Luz, it reached 30C. Up early I went to the early 0830 church service. It wasn't as busy as the later family service, only around 500 people compared to nearer 1,000. The congregation was different too; less pomp, more relaxed and more social. Afterwards I caught up with my friends Pascale and Bruno (and their delightful children). We spent a few hours on the beach before heading to their lovely home in the foothills of La Rhune for lunch. Upon returning to St Jean de Luz the remains of the day have been spent on my terrace catching up on sunshine and reading. A very bon dimanche.

Basque of the day:- sunshine :: eguzki

dawn in St Jean de Luz

Early morning in St Jean de Luz is a telling time. In any given town you can tell a lot about it if you get up early and see what's going on at the break of day. I try to get up and out around half seven for a run or walk each morning.

By this time the boulangerie ovens are up and baking, meats have been delivered to the butcher, fruits are being set up in the market, the flower lady is setting out her displays and the fishermen are returning to port. Other early birds are up and exercising while others set out tables at local cafes. The by now immaculate streets are empty in anticipation of commerce and visitors.

So what does this say about the Basque port? It is a town that has fresh food, exercise and sociability coarsing through its veins. It takes itself seriously as a centre of tourism and local business, but not too seriously.

Basque of the day:- dawn :: argitu

Friday lunchtime in St Jean de Luz

It being the fin de semaine I took myself out for lunch today in St Jean de Luz. I have read a lot in the international press in recent years about the decline of French cooking, that the country has lost it's culinary way, that Tokyo/New York/London are the new Paris. Possibly at the top-zillion-Michelin-star-end there are discrepencies but when it comes to straight, no-nonsense working lunch tucker there is no comparison. Well there is, but it is not favourable to the UK.

On a given Friday in London I may have taken my team for lunch, but where to eat? Three choices: top end pricey, pizza or gastropub. The top end is just silly for a quick bite to eat, pizza is rather staid and though tasty, gastropubs are hardly healthy and tended to be filled with inebriated office workers.

On this given Friday in St Jean de Luz I asked myself the same question. This time only two choices: top end pricey or straightforward. Being a Scot I am always going to opt for the latter option. I am then given 62 possibilities to choose from in terms of venue, bear in mind that St Jean de Luz is not a big town. I have six preferred eateries and selected my option 2: Txantxangorri (granted, you have to know where to eat). For the same price as two pints of beer and a vodka lemonade I had a delicious three course meal plus coffee: vegetarian couscous, roast pork with haricots verts and salad, skimmed rice pudding with ginger.

No comparison. Excellent food at an affordable price, the professional waiters are jolly and friendly so there is much banter once you get to know them and the restaurant is clean. Moreover, in France you get to eat all the best (more interesting) bits of animals that the PC Police have banned in the UK. Next week: tete de veau (check out photo!).

Basque of the day:- offal :: tripotxak

rainy day in St Jean de Luz

Today the rains came back to St Jean de Luz. The town has been in much need of a good downpour and as I look out to the mountains we are certainly receiving one. After moving all my plants to maximum rain-catching positions I headed out for a walk.

Echoing the sky, the sea was whipping itself into a frenzy too. Some more hardy surfers were braving the weather to take advantage of the swell. The weather is set to change again by the weekend so I took advantage of the cooler, wetter weather - I am one of those few people who like the rain.

At the end of the long promenade is a small hill (hill is an exaggeration) called Sainte Barbe. It is a rocky outcrop that helps defend the beach of St Jean de Luz from the Atlantic Ocean. The 'hill' is well managed and holds many interesting plant species for those interested in that kind of thing.

There are also a myriad of sitting areas from where to enjoy vast views out to sea and up into the Pyrenees. On warmer days the benches are filled with more mature townsfolk taking a rest from their daily exercise regime. Not so today.

Basque of the day:- rain :: euri

school's back in St Jean de Luz

The streets of St Jean de Luz were filled with excited children this morning as they ran helter skelter on their way back to school. I never remember being that excited when the summer holidays were over. Perhaps they get cakes and treats on their first day. With the start of term town has resumed it's normal local buzz. The cafes are full of chattering chaps (who should probably be working) and the streets are filled by huddles of ladies exchanging holiday stories.

I could tell it was business as usual. Whilst out running this morning I came across many people I hadn't seen since the start of summer and greeted 'bonjour' fifteen times before I stopped counting. It was a little sad to watch the children's beach playgrounds being dismantled for another year but seeing so many familiar faces more than made up for it. Lovely. Reaching the top of Sainte Barbe I took some time to simply stare out at sea. The Basque coastline has to be one of the finest anywhere in the world.

Basque of the day:- return :: itzultze

musical St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz was eerily quiet today. I was also just about the only person on the beach. This is probably because it was raining, as it does every third day or so in the Basque country. It has remained warm, if humid. I had the sea to myself when I went swimming this morning, save for the fish who were also enjoying a bit of peace and quiet too.

Whilst the official season has ended there is a music festival in St Jean de Luz this week which brings in a large if somewhat more mature crowd. Every lunchtime and evening all available churches and halls echo to the sounds of classical and jazz music. A welcome chapter of more subdued entertainment after the madness that has been summer.

Basque of the day:- music :: musika

sunny weekend in St Jean de Luz

As predicted the weather in St Jean de Luz has been wonderful this weekend. After a day on the beach, on Saturday evening we headed across the border to San Sebastian for tapas/pinxtos and a couple of glasses of sangria. The Spanish town is dangerously close and offers dangerously good nightlife!

Sunday was a more mellow day. Again the day was spent on the beach. By mid afternoon the beach, though busy, was nowhere like it has been. Many people were sunbathing with their luggage, catching a few last rays of sunshine before driving or taking the train home. The schools start back this week.

The last 'toro de fuego' of the season took place last night (accompanied by a very good band). We sat in the place enjoying a couple of glasses of calvados and watching the mayhem unfold. Although this marks the end of the official season, it is also the beginning of everybody's favourite month. All year our friends have been telling us how much they love September: sunny weather sans tourists!

Basque of the day:- beginning :: hasiera

Scottish weather in St Jean de Luz

As I walked through St Jean de Luz this morning the butcher stopped to greet me. He noted how happy I must be with the Scottish weather that was upon us. Indeed, following a rainy night a thick haar has come in bringing with it one of those days where it doesn't seem to be raining but you are soaked through.

There were still a few souls in the sea this morning, several joggers, shoppers, amblers and even a snail sitting on a bench having a rest from the stressful pace of life in St Jean de Luz. With the wet the temperature has come back down. This weekend promises to be excellent.

Basque of the day:- wet :: heze

the skies break over St Jean de Luz

The temperature continued to rise in St Jean de Luz today. At the moment (9pm) it has edged over 30C.

Looking up to the mountains, during the past half hour thick black clouds have started to wrap themselves around their peaks and swarm down their sides. I can usually see a couple of mountains across the border in Spain but heading up the valley is what looks like an exceedingly heavy rainstorm.

Fingers crossed for some thunder and lightning, and fingers crossed tomorrow will be a little fresher (humidity levels today were around 85%).

Basque of the day:- weather :: eguraldi

beach time in St Jean de Luz

Another hot day in St Jean de Luz. There was little else to be done other than stretch out and relax on the beach. It may have been busy but it is a fabulous way to spend the day. Surprisingly tiring too! So long as you are in situ by eleven you can guarantee a good spot.

The beach in St Jean de Luz has four excellent children's centres where parents can deposit their kids for anything from 30 minutes to a full day. The centres have a variety of beach based playthings, from trampolines and swings to climbing nets and flying-fox slides. It makes you wish you were ten again.

Basque of the day:- beach :: hondartza

the secrets of St Jean de Luz

Tonight a friend and I went to a history lecture in St Jean de Luz. It was in French but I think I caught most of it. The talk was about a variety of secrets that were designed into the architecture of the church.

Crafty were those C14th architects and seemingly very eager to push their own take on religion. Statues of saints that have been taken for granted for centuries are apparently not who they purport to be, and is the figure in the stained glass window really the Enfanta?

Basque of the day:- mystery :: misterio

shifting down a gear in St Jean de Luz

There was a further change of pace in St Jean de Luz today. This morning the last of my summer guests departed. Every day for the last three months I have had visitors. It is lovely to entertain and I am incredibly fortunate to have so many wonderful friends and family, but it is equally delightful now that they have all gone! There is a mounting buzz amongst the locals that the season is drawing to a close. By all accounts this summer has been far busier than normal which is great news for the town.Similarly to the St Jean de Luz festival that takes place before the season starts, there are a couple of festivals taking place to mark the end of the season too. These promise to be well-attended events where the local Basques can let their hair down after working hard over the summer months. The social scene here is very different in the summer months. Many of the friends I spend time with throughout the year are unavailable or simply too tired so I am looking forward to catching up with everyone again soon.

Basque of the day:- local :: tokiko

lazing on a Sunday afternoon

The end of the St Jean de Luz 'season' is around the corner. Over the weekend the volume of tourists and second-home-residents has been falling steadily. However, the vibrancy that has filled St Jean de Luz throughout the summer remains.

This morning a Spanish brass band woke me as they marched down the street. Tonight as I get ready to go to bed a Basque open-air dinner is offering up a variety of songs and beyond that the toro del fuego is in full flow in Place Louis XIV.

By next weekend St Jean de Luz will be back to its normal self.

Basque of the day:- end :: buru

forray into Spain

Leaving the lovely beach of St Jean de Luz behind we headed south across the border to enjoy a lovely day (and evening) in St Sebastian - or Donostia as it is known in Basque.

It is one of the most wonderfiul places to simply wander around and soak up the atmosphere. The city is very much a new town until you break its shell and enter the wild yolk of its old town, complete with a dazzling array of religious venues and eateries.

After several hours on the beach we decided to prowl the old town and found a most excellent bar to take tapas: beef, pork, gambas, chipirons, poulet. All washed down with several glasses of sangria. A wonderful sortie.

Basque of the day:- escape :: ihes

sporting exploits in St Jean de Luz

During the summer in St Jean de Luz there is a good deal of sport on offer. Twice a week the 'jai alai' hosts major cesta punta matches that are part of the season long league. The game is traditionally Basque, involves two teams of two men with long baskets (xisteras) attached to their arm. The court is roughly 3x the size of a squash court with 3 walls (front, side, back). Each team must throw the ball (pelota) against the front wall. The other team has one bounce before it has to do likewise. If the ball bounces twice or falls outside set lines the point is lost.

St Jean de Luz also offers two more traditional pelota matches each week. These are held at the 'fronton municipal' (council run pelota stadium). Rugby is also rife throughout town, and the entire Basque region. St Jean de Luz has a good team though the stronger local teams in Biarritz and Bayonne steal most of the attention. Fitter people surf along the coast, the Atlantic presents some excellent waves. A huge volume of people go running or walking daily. Basically, the Basques seem to embrace and partake in a lot of sport. Given the number of parties held this is very necessary to look after the figure.Basque of the day:- sport :: kirol

the sounds of St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz is at it's peak this week. It is coming towards the end of the school holidays and every bed in the Basque country is filled with happy families holidaying in the eternal sun. Having been initially shocked by the tidal wave of 'etrangers' I have learned to embrace the feeling and go with the flow. The speed of change has been dramatic. Even as recently as the start of August it was easy to find a seat at the cafe or restaurant of your choice. At the moment I am booking a day in advance and only frequenting bars where I know the staff so that they look after me (a huge perk). The only drawback is the beach. Unless you are in place before lunchtime it is almost impossible to find a space for your towel.

It is an important time for the town. The majority of revenue is generated during this month. The shopkeepers are displaying their finest wares. Today, to increase the shopping frenzy there has been a 'braderie' (sale). Tables are laid out along the streets and vendors pedal their wares accordingly. Amongst the happy holidaymakers groups of musicians set up camp and delight their ever flowing audiences with a wide range of styles.

St Jean de Luz is alive with noise twenty four hours a day. The last of the late night revellers can be heard staggering home as the bakeries start-up their ovens at six. Local businesses carry out their trades during the morning. The afternoon and early evening is given to promenading. Late evening and early morning are the hours for the younger visitors as they drink, sing and fool around in the many bars and parks. There are also a myriad of splendid and often bizarre fetes that take place in the evenings. Once your ears (and sleep patterns) become accustomed it is delightful, no need to wear a watch, just listen to the sounds outside.

Basque of the day:- holiday :: oporraldi

a tough week in St Jean de Luz

My bad cousin has been in St Jean de Luz for a week. His arrival coincided with a marked increase in tourist volumes and, strangely, a marked downturn in my liver quality. It has been an exhausting week of parties. The Basque town is far noisier than I have known with music playing long into the small hours. Simple tasks like walking to the market take three times longer due to pedestrian volumes as a myriad of nationalities inter-mingle, ambling along the picturesque streets. For those holidaying here it creates a wonderful carnival atmosphere. For those of us living here it is all a little challenging.

Basque of the day:- liver :: gibel

en route to St Jean de Luz

I adore lovely chance encounters. On my way home to St Jean de Luz today I sat beside a delightful lady and her husband. They live some ten minutes from me down here. As we got talking we shared a far happier and more interesting flight than would normally be the case. We have determined to establish a creative workshop for writing/reading/artwork and welcome anyone interested to get in contact (N.B. it will be in English, at least to begin with!).

It is always lovely to come home. I did note however, that having just spent a little time in a major city that St Jean de Luz is up there with the most hectic of urban centres during the summer months. Fabulously envigorating. Tomorrow sees the arrival of my young cousin, he is a terrible influence and I fear for my liver.

Basque of the day:- alcohol :: alkohol

all change in St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz is a bipolar town.

From mid September till the start of July there is a local Basque population of some thirteen thousand. During the summer months the population trebles as erstwhile empty apartments and houses are crammed with second home owners and tourists. It is wonderful for the local economy and a significant culture shock for those of us who live here year round.

Take Rue Gambetta. On any given spring afternoon it is a pleasant street filled with lovely shops and locals who spend time idly chattering with one another. Shift forward two months and the street is a chaotic melange of malcoordinated pedestrians and young children running at full pelt endangering all with their toppling ice creams. It is still a wonderful place, just different.

Basque of the day:- change :: aldaketa

yanks in St Jean de Luz

I felt I attained local status for the first time today in St Jean de Luz. There is an external perception that the Basque's are rude and not to be trusted, I suspect this jaundiced lie was started by the anti-Basque governments of the mid C20. Anyway, sometimes it is good to give people what they expect.

As I walked down Rue Gambetta I heard a very loud and obnoxious American couple. They were saying things like "gee, it's nice here, but it would be nicer if it was bigger." You get the gist. As I walked towards them I could see they were intending to stop me. "Do you know where the market is?" they asked in their best English. No 'excuse me', 'hello' or slightest attempt to speak French. Riled, I shrugged my shoulders, "je ne comprends pas" and looked blankly into their podgy round faces. "D-o Y-o-u K-n-o-w W-h-e-r-e T-h-e M-a-r-k-e-t I-s?" they repeated more loudly. I was utterly embarrassed to be an English speaker. I continued with my glazed look, shrugged my shoulders again, made a slight noise through puckered lips and walked on.

It felt fabulous. Not simply for having resisted ignorance but also basking in a warm glow of satisfaction. By not letting the oversized Americans know where the market was I saved them from further calorific content. They should thank me.

Basque of the day:- fat :: gantz

St Jean de Luz lite

Another tough day in St Jean de Luz. After a lie-in, I felt I had earned it, I went for a run along the beach and a quick dip before the tourists arrived en masse. The beach is comfortably busy till lunchtime, thereafter it's a no-go zone for locals. At lunchtime I caught up with Pascale and Bruno. Opting for a delicious breast of duck it was only once I'd finished it that I remembered I have a dinner party this evening. To make amends we went for an ice cream. The five day festival in Bayonne starts tonight, I aim to pay a visit tomorrow.I do find it strange when people ask if you are 'off anywhere nice', especially with regards to holidays. One has to assume that the average person prefers to go somewhere that is not a nightmarish disease ridden manifestation of hell. Of course they are going somewhere nice, or at least somewhere they want to go. It is a little like signing off an email saying 'many thanks'. How many thanks is that? You have to assume it's more than two or you would have said 'a couple of thanks' and probably more than three else you would have said 'a few thanks'. Both of these sound weaker than simply saying 'thanks' so are we to assume that 'many thanks' is a huge number? Bear in mind that if it were too many it might sound like you were being disingenuous. It's tricky.

Basque of the day:- language :: hizkuntza

kids in St Jean de Luz

I have just spent a wonderful five days in St Jean de Luz with my good friends Peter and Nicola and their two young boys. Not having children myself I had seriously underestimated how much work is involved, it's exhausting. However, tiring as it was it was lovely to show friends around the Basque country. I even managed to convey just how stressful my life down here is. In search of a supermarket Nicola and I set forth to Spain. In order to reduce the risk of adverse stress we first headed to San Sebastian for tapas, ice cream and a walk on the beach. This gave us the required energy and ensured tranquility.

Otherwise, time has been spent enjoying the wonderful weather whilst building sandcastles and bodysurfing. St Jean de Luz has truly blossomed into tourist season. I had not factored on how challenging it can be living in a town that is visited by so many people. A simple visit to the baker in the morning takes twice as long: the queue is that much longer and the streets that much busier. It did add to the sense of fun and I think that the boys in particular enjoyed the happy atmosphere.

We exchanged views on whether it is better or not to have children, it seems as though the grass is always greener and that it suits some more than others, we were all happy with our lot. There is seemingly a higher than average proportion of people in the Basque country who do not have children. The blood type common to people in these parts is reported to not be optimal for holding a pregnancy. As such it is relatively normal for husbands and wifes to remain as couples which given the social demands of St Jean de Luz is probably just as well!

Basque of the day:- children :: izenaren

still no rain in St Jean de Luz

The flower beds in St Jean de Luz are beginning to look a little parched. The local cats are hiding in the shade. The local people are hiding beneath canopies. Only tourists are seen out in the midday sun, and they are not all mad dogs or Englishmen.

As I tried in vain to keep cool this evening I was reading on my terrace with half an eye on the mountains hoping in vain to see clouds forming. As the light began to fade I noticed a shadow circling overhead. A red kite was rising and falling on the thermals rising out of the streets. They are magnificent birds with a wingspan not far short of two metres. They feast on small rodents so I am assuming there are a few mice braving the streets while the cats hide. A lovely end to the day, and strangely enough the local pigeon community were in hiding.

Basque of the day:- predator :: harrapari

St Jean de Luz melts

My goodness has it been hot today in St Jean de Luz. The Basque town served up temperatures that exceeded 36C. It was cooler to keep the windows firmly shut (and sit in a bath full of ice).

Despite endeavouring to have a productive day, everything took a little longer. Looking out of the window even the erstwhile panic-shopping was being undertaken at a more leisurely pace in the myriad of fashionable stores along Rue Gambetta.

It was a day for moving slowly and listening to Sailing By. I am guessing that the forementioned storm will be hitting us soon, it has to break sometime, please...

Basque of the day:- sweat :: izerdi