relaxed St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz was a hive of activity yesterday. The lads walking the streets mulitplied into a full band, Friday's Breton piper piped happily, a baroque choir sang in the street, antique cars drove through town and the church hummed with classical music. Unlike St Jean de Luz I took it easy, other than buying myself a large cake as a Sunday treat.

Today has seen a return of the fine weather. The beach is nice and quiet after the summer so on days like today the Luziens take full advantage, congregating on the sand to catch up on local gossip and enjoy a glass or two of wine.

I went for a lovely stroll this evening ending up at the far end of the beach. Here the Nivelle river flows out to the Atlantic. On one side is St Jean de Luz, on the other the town of Ciboure. It is a lovely wee place that has less of the pomp of its neighbour but is equally charming and resolutely Basque. It is also where Maurice Ravel was born (in the large stone house pictured that looks less Basque than the others).

Basque of the day:- quiet :: isil

St Jean de Luz floods

It has been raining hard in St Jean de Luz. Just like everything else, when it rains here it rains to excess. Bayonne and Biarritz have reported widespread flooding and the Nivelle is looking dangerously high near the port. All this in twenty four hours. Early this morning, not at all put off by the clement weather, groups of local lads walked around town playing music to rouse better spirits (see below).

Another unique experience last night. Our choir was giving a concert at a hotel in the nearby town of Ascain. The purpose was to entertain a group from Britanny. The group responded to almost every song by playing their version of bagpipes and dancing to traditional Breton music. The entertainment took place during the course of a lengthy dinner for around 100 people. My singing was probably under par due to excess red wine but it was good fun and I felt rather privileged to be sharing this experience as an outsider.

I am not somebody who is a fan of such things but the world's longest running soap opera, Guiding Light, has come to an end. What high brow entertainment is replacing it? An extra edition of some random quiz show called Let's Make a Deal. American television is so cultured...

Basque of the day:- culture :: kultura

dancing in St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz once again held its breath as my Flamenco course recommenced. I am in the equivalent of big school now, being the hardcore flamenco man that I am, but went to the beginners class today to remind myself how to move. The ever wonderful and omnipresent Fabiana sasheyed around the floor showing newcomers how to move their hips to the rythym.

A couple of friends were doing as I was and we agreed to stick together for our first day in big school. It was a blast. After an hour of full-on flamenco practice (on top of the beginners hour) Fabiana decided to shake things up and had us busting salsa grooves and latin moves.

Once again I am the only chap, why beggers belief. If the single men of St Jean de Luz could get over themselves they would find a myriad of delightful girls and ladies (of all ages). Being a happily married man I am deemed 'safe' so find myself very much in demand as a dance partner, you've got to love it!

From the sublime to the ridiculous. This evening I, and ten other chaps, are giving a concert of Basque song up in the mountains. None of this ever happened when I was working with numbers.

Basque of the day:- flirt :: pertxenta

singing in St Jean de Luz

Clubs and associations in St Jean de Luz have started coming back to life after the summer. My choir started up again this evening. I had been ardently practicing Basque and French over the summer but was completely thrown after trying to keep up with the guys as they chatted speedily after three months apart. I know I am far from perfect on the French front but I am usually able to understand what people are saying, tonight I had no idea. The guys have all grown up knowing each other which while it gives our choir a brotherly feel also means they have their own secret language. I gave up and sat silently, utterly bemused, as tales of drunkness and beautiful girls were recounted (I think?).

Tomorrow is a busy day. I have coffee with a friend in the morning, lunch with another, Flamenco starts after lunch, coffee with another friend in the afternoon and we (the choir) are singing at a festival in the mountains tomorrow evening. People working in offices may moan about how busy their schedules are but they haven't a clue how jammed the social scene is in St Jean de Luz, they have it easy...

Basque of the day:- busy :: lanpetu

St Jean de Luz coffee break

St Jean de Luz has the type of cafe culture you read about in books. In the small squares at either end of Rue Gambetta there are a variety of establishments to choose from, not to mention the myriad of others in adjacent streets. All thrive with a mix of local and visiting trade. Beret wearing gentlemen sip coffee amidst heated debate over the latest sporting results. Younger business-people take a quick caffeine boost or bite to eat between rendezvous. Couples linger over lunch and gossipers gossip. Weaving between them all the uniformed waiters ply their dark arts. The cafe is not a place to rush; sit in the corner, order your preferred choice, relax, observe. I sometimes lose a day there.

Basque of the day:- cafe :: kafetegi

the music plays on in St Jean de Luz

The music never stops in St Jean de Luz. Just as the summer season came to an end the music festival began. Town is filled with musicians carrying their instruments to and fro with music pouring out of the various venues night and day.

Now I love music as much as the next person but there is an accordian player who has played outside my office window from 0900 till 1800 for the past week (listen below). Much as I try to imagine I am sitting in some Parisian cafe on the left bank musing over some philosophical conundrum or other the overriding question that occupies my mind is where I stored my bow and arrow? Bless him, he is very talented.

Basque of the day:- annoying :: gogaikarri

executive stress in St Jean de Luz

Another particularly difficult day in St Jean de Luz. After being rudely awakened by the sunshine flooding through my bedroom window I looked out towards the mountains in search of clouds. There were none. Taking advantage of such a day I called my good friend Michelle who I assumed would be finding today equally difficult.

Driving up the coast some six kilometres we settled at a little table next to the beach in Ilbarritz at the wonderful La Plancha restaurant. A starter of crevettes and guacamole was followed by sea bream in garlic before a large chocolate brownie with ice cream arrived at our table. Between mouthfuls and conversation we watched as intrepid surfers braved the Atlantic's swell. By the time coffee arrived we had been there three hours, certainly too late to begin any real work.

Heading in land we travelled behind La Rhune passing through a host of delightful Basque villages. The sun warmed us as the wind swept away any remnants of weekend cobwebs. We ventured on through the Spanish village of Vera de Bidasoa before arriving at the port town of Hondarribia, some ten kilometres south of St Jean de Luz. In search of a digestif we had forgotten it was Monday and finding an establishment open was an almost impossible challenge. We settled for a seat on the promenade and imagined the many battles that had been fought here since the C14th. Fishing boats glided past, brave swimmers swam the currents and an elderly gent took a shower using a tap and plastic bottle. Home, exhausted, we parted company and agreed that Tuesday is a far better day to start the working week.

Basque of the day:- tomorrow :: bihar

Willy Wonka in St Jean de Luz

Today we move outside of St Jean de Luz. Cadbury, the UK chocolate company that inspired Willy Wonka, has been under fire this week from Kraft of America (they make processed cheese and stuff) who made a hostile bid for the company.

The British do love their chocolate. Locals in St Jean de Luz are often amazed at the plethora of confectionery on offer in UK shops. Basques are also chocolate experts. They claim they were importing cocoa, making and exporting chocolate before anyone else in Europe, even the Belgians.

Cadbury is one of those rare brands that people grow up loving and not just people in the UK. Even the French have a soft (centred) spot for the company and are aghast at the American overture (I can't imagine the French government allowing this to have even reached the table were it a French company). Despite centuries of war and verbal wrangling chocolate seems to be finally bringing people together on a united front. I am sure Willy Wonka and his oompa loompas would be impressed. I also suspect that if John Cadbury had a time machine in his shop back in 1824 he would have a wry smile on his face.

It is a robust, innovative company that makes my favourite treat (Dariy Milk), may the ghosts of Bournville and Wonka's chocolate factory rise up and safeguard its heritage.

Basque of the day:- defence :: defendatze

fishy St Jean de Luz

The fishermen of St Jean de Luz do work hard. No matter what time of day (or night) you walk past the small Basque fishing port there is always something going on; boats coming and going, others unloading their catches, bickering bartering, preparations and so forth. The town has a rich history in the fishing trade. From the C13th there are reports of whaling from the port. These intrepid adventurers sailed as far as Greenland in search of whales and seals.

It is said that when Colombus first arrived in the Americas the natives spoke a form of Basque implying he was far from the first visitor to those shores. When the Dutch and English began to commercialise fishing (whaling in particular) it is to Basque fishermen they turned for expert guidance.

The port of St Jean de Luz is still thriving and very active. Freshly caught fish is on sale daily; from squid to lobster to bream. Unfortunately most of the whales were killed off at the beginning of the last century but there is said to be a growing population that visits the Bay of Biscay annually.

Basque of the day:- fish :: arrain

comparisons in St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz basked in wonderful sunshine today. It really was the perfect late summer's day.

Apparently, in St Jean de Luz some 70% of bread bought in shops is made on site, in the UK it is reportedly nearer 3%. Everybody seems to eat a lot of white bread in these parts but they appear considerably slimmer than people in the UK. Everybody in these parts seems to drink continuously and more than half smoke yet the average person seems to live a lot longer than in the UK (for a small town there seems to be a lot of people living beyond 100). Any thoughts why? Aliens?

Basque of the day:- question :: galde

Sunday roast in St Jean de Luz

A sweltering Sunday in St Jean de Luz, it reached 30C. Up early I went to the early 0830 church service. It wasn't as busy as the later family service, only around 500 people compared to nearer 1,000. The congregation was different too; less pomp, more relaxed and more social. Afterwards I caught up with my friends Pascale and Bruno (and their delightful children). We spent a few hours on the beach before heading to their lovely home in the foothills of La Rhune for lunch. Upon returning to St Jean de Luz the remains of the day have been spent on my terrace catching up on sunshine and reading. A very bon dimanche.

Basque of the day:- sunshine :: eguzki

dawn in St Jean de Luz

Early morning in St Jean de Luz is a telling time. In any given town you can tell a lot about it if you get up early and see what's going on at the break of day. I try to get up and out around half seven for a run or walk each morning.

By this time the boulangerie ovens are up and baking, meats have been delivered to the butcher, fruits are being set up in the market, the flower lady is setting out her displays and the fishermen are returning to port. Other early birds are up and exercising while others set out tables at local cafes. The by now immaculate streets are empty in anticipation of commerce and visitors.

So what does this say about the Basque port? It is a town that has fresh food, exercise and sociability coarsing through its veins. It takes itself seriously as a centre of tourism and local business, but not too seriously.

Basque of the day:- dawn :: argitu

Friday lunchtime in St Jean de Luz

It being the fin de semaine I took myself out for lunch today in St Jean de Luz. I have read a lot in the international press in recent years about the decline of French cooking, that the country has lost it's culinary way, that Tokyo/New York/London are the new Paris. Possibly at the top-zillion-Michelin-star-end there are discrepencies but when it comes to straight, no-nonsense working lunch tucker there is no comparison. Well there is, but it is not favourable to the UK.

On a given Friday in London I may have taken my team for lunch, but where to eat? Three choices: top end pricey, pizza or gastropub. The top end is just silly for a quick bite to eat, pizza is rather staid and though tasty, gastropubs are hardly healthy and tended to be filled with inebriated office workers.

On this given Friday in St Jean de Luz I asked myself the same question. This time only two choices: top end pricey or straightforward. Being a Scot I am always going to opt for the latter option. I am then given 62 possibilities to choose from in terms of venue, bear in mind that St Jean de Luz is not a big town. I have six preferred eateries and selected my option 2: Txantxangorri (granted, you have to know where to eat). For the same price as two pints of beer and a vodka lemonade I had a delicious three course meal plus coffee: vegetarian couscous, roast pork with haricots verts and salad, skimmed rice pudding with ginger.

No comparison. Excellent food at an affordable price, the professional waiters are jolly and friendly so there is much banter once you get to know them and the restaurant is clean. Moreover, in France you get to eat all the best (more interesting) bits of animals that the PC Police have banned in the UK. Next week: tete de veau (check out photo!).

Basque of the day:- offal :: tripotxak

rainy day in St Jean de Luz

Today the rains came back to St Jean de Luz. The town has been in much need of a good downpour and as I look out to the mountains we are certainly receiving one. After moving all my plants to maximum rain-catching positions I headed out for a walk.

Echoing the sky, the sea was whipping itself into a frenzy too. Some more hardy surfers were braving the weather to take advantage of the swell. The weather is set to change again by the weekend so I took advantage of the cooler, wetter weather - I am one of those few people who like the rain.

At the end of the long promenade is a small hill (hill is an exaggeration) called Sainte Barbe. It is a rocky outcrop that helps defend the beach of St Jean de Luz from the Atlantic Ocean. The 'hill' is well managed and holds many interesting plant species for those interested in that kind of thing.

There are also a myriad of sitting areas from where to enjoy vast views out to sea and up into the Pyrenees. On warmer days the benches are filled with more mature townsfolk taking a rest from their daily exercise regime. Not so today.

Basque of the day:- rain :: euri

school's back in St Jean de Luz

The streets of St Jean de Luz were filled with excited children this morning as they ran helter skelter on their way back to school. I never remember being that excited when the summer holidays were over. Perhaps they get cakes and treats on their first day. With the start of term town has resumed it's normal local buzz. The cafes are full of chattering chaps (who should probably be working) and the streets are filled by huddles of ladies exchanging holiday stories.

I could tell it was business as usual. Whilst out running this morning I came across many people I hadn't seen since the start of summer and greeted 'bonjour' fifteen times before I stopped counting. It was a little sad to watch the children's beach playgrounds being dismantled for another year but seeing so many familiar faces more than made up for it. Lovely. Reaching the top of Sainte Barbe I took some time to simply stare out at sea. The Basque coastline has to be one of the finest anywhere in the world.

Basque of the day:- return :: itzultze

musical St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz was eerily quiet today. I was also just about the only person on the beach. This is probably because it was raining, as it does every third day or so in the Basque country. It has remained warm, if humid. I had the sea to myself when I went swimming this morning, save for the fish who were also enjoying a bit of peace and quiet too.

Whilst the official season has ended there is a music festival in St Jean de Luz this week which brings in a large if somewhat more mature crowd. Every lunchtime and evening all available churches and halls echo to the sounds of classical and jazz music. A welcome chapter of more subdued entertainment after the madness that has been summer.

Basque of the day:- music :: musika

sunny weekend in St Jean de Luz

As predicted the weather in St Jean de Luz has been wonderful this weekend. After a day on the beach, on Saturday evening we headed across the border to San Sebastian for tapas/pinxtos and a couple of glasses of sangria. The Spanish town is dangerously close and offers dangerously good nightlife!

Sunday was a more mellow day. Again the day was spent on the beach. By mid afternoon the beach, though busy, was nowhere like it has been. Many people were sunbathing with their luggage, catching a few last rays of sunshine before driving or taking the train home. The schools start back this week.

The last 'toro de fuego' of the season took place last night (accompanied by a very good band). We sat in the place enjoying a couple of glasses of calvados and watching the mayhem unfold. Although this marks the end of the official season, it is also the beginning of everybody's favourite month. All year our friends have been telling us how much they love September: sunny weather sans tourists!

Basque of the day:- beginning :: hasiera

Scottish weather in St Jean de Luz

As I walked through St Jean de Luz this morning the butcher stopped to greet me. He noted how happy I must be with the Scottish weather that was upon us. Indeed, following a rainy night a thick haar has come in bringing with it one of those days where it doesn't seem to be raining but you are soaked through.

There were still a few souls in the sea this morning, several joggers, shoppers, amblers and even a snail sitting on a bench having a rest from the stressful pace of life in St Jean de Luz. With the wet the temperature has come back down. This weekend promises to be excellent.

Basque of the day:- wet :: heze

the skies break over St Jean de Luz

The temperature continued to rise in St Jean de Luz today. At the moment (9pm) it has edged over 30C.

Looking up to the mountains, during the past half hour thick black clouds have started to wrap themselves around their peaks and swarm down their sides. I can usually see a couple of mountains across the border in Spain but heading up the valley is what looks like an exceedingly heavy rainstorm.

Fingers crossed for some thunder and lightning, and fingers crossed tomorrow will be a little fresher (humidity levels today were around 85%).

Basque of the day:- weather :: eguraldi

beach time in St Jean de Luz

Another hot day in St Jean de Luz. There was little else to be done other than stretch out and relax on the beach. It may have been busy but it is a fabulous way to spend the day. Surprisingly tiring too! So long as you are in situ by eleven you can guarantee a good spot.

The beach in St Jean de Luz has four excellent children's centres where parents can deposit their kids for anything from 30 minutes to a full day. The centres have a variety of beach based playthings, from trampolines and swings to climbing nets and flying-fox slides. It makes you wish you were ten again.

Basque of the day:- beach :: hondartza

the secrets of St Jean de Luz

Tonight a friend and I went to a history lecture in St Jean de Luz. It was in French but I think I caught most of it. The talk was about a variety of secrets that were designed into the architecture of the church.

Crafty were those C14th architects and seemingly very eager to push their own take on religion. Statues of saints that have been taken for granted for centuries are apparently not who they purport to be, and is the figure in the stained glass window really the Enfanta?

Basque of the day:- mystery :: misterio

shifting down a gear in St Jean de Luz

There was a further change of pace in St Jean de Luz today. This morning the last of my summer guests departed. Every day for the last three months I have had visitors. It is lovely to entertain and I am incredibly fortunate to have so many wonderful friends and family, but it is equally delightful now that they have all gone! There is a mounting buzz amongst the locals that the season is drawing to a close. By all accounts this summer has been far busier than normal which is great news for the town.Similarly to the St Jean de Luz festival that takes place before the season starts, there are a couple of festivals taking place to mark the end of the season too. These promise to be well-attended events where the local Basques can let their hair down after working hard over the summer months. The social scene here is very different in the summer months. Many of the friends I spend time with throughout the year are unavailable or simply too tired so I am looking forward to catching up with everyone again soon.

Basque of the day:- local :: tokiko

lazing on a Sunday afternoon

The end of the St Jean de Luz 'season' is around the corner. Over the weekend the volume of tourists and second-home-residents has been falling steadily. However, the vibrancy that has filled St Jean de Luz throughout the summer remains.

This morning a Spanish brass band woke me as they marched down the street. Tonight as I get ready to go to bed a Basque open-air dinner is offering up a variety of songs and beyond that the toro del fuego is in full flow in Place Louis XIV.

By next weekend St Jean de Luz will be back to its normal self.

Basque of the day:- end :: buru

forray into Spain

Leaving the lovely beach of St Jean de Luz behind we headed south across the border to enjoy a lovely day (and evening) in St Sebastian - or Donostia as it is known in Basque.

It is one of the most wonderfiul places to simply wander around and soak up the atmosphere. The city is very much a new town until you break its shell and enter the wild yolk of its old town, complete with a dazzling array of religious venues and eateries.

After several hours on the beach we decided to prowl the old town and found a most excellent bar to take tapas: beef, pork, gambas, chipirons, poulet. All washed down with several glasses of sangria. A wonderful sortie.

Basque of the day:- escape :: ihes

sporting exploits in St Jean de Luz

During the summer in St Jean de Luz there is a good deal of sport on offer. Twice a week the 'jai alai' hosts major cesta punta matches that are part of the season long league. The game is traditionally Basque, involves two teams of two men with long baskets (xisteras) attached to their arm. The court is roughly 3x the size of a squash court with 3 walls (front, side, back). Each team must throw the ball (pelota) against the front wall. The other team has one bounce before it has to do likewise. If the ball bounces twice or falls outside set lines the point is lost.

St Jean de Luz also offers two more traditional pelota matches each week. These are held at the 'fronton municipal' (council run pelota stadium). Rugby is also rife throughout town, and the entire Basque region. St Jean de Luz has a good team though the stronger local teams in Biarritz and Bayonne steal most of the attention. Fitter people surf along the coast, the Atlantic presents some excellent waves. A huge volume of people go running or walking daily. Basically, the Basques seem to embrace and partake in a lot of sport. Given the number of parties held this is very necessary to look after the figure.Basque of the day:- sport :: kirol

the sounds of St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz is at it's peak this week. It is coming towards the end of the school holidays and every bed in the Basque country is filled with happy families holidaying in the eternal sun. Having been initially shocked by the tidal wave of 'etrangers' I have learned to embrace the feeling and go with the flow. The speed of change has been dramatic. Even as recently as the start of August it was easy to find a seat at the cafe or restaurant of your choice. At the moment I am booking a day in advance and only frequenting bars where I know the staff so that they look after me (a huge perk). The only drawback is the beach. Unless you are in place before lunchtime it is almost impossible to find a space for your towel.

It is an important time for the town. The majority of revenue is generated during this month. The shopkeepers are displaying their finest wares. Today, to increase the shopping frenzy there has been a 'braderie' (sale). Tables are laid out along the streets and vendors pedal their wares accordingly. Amongst the happy holidaymakers groups of musicians set up camp and delight their ever flowing audiences with a wide range of styles.

St Jean de Luz is alive with noise twenty four hours a day. The last of the late night revellers can be heard staggering home as the bakeries start-up their ovens at six. Local businesses carry out their trades during the morning. The afternoon and early evening is given to promenading. Late evening and early morning are the hours for the younger visitors as they drink, sing and fool around in the many bars and parks. There are also a myriad of splendid and often bizarre fetes that take place in the evenings. Once your ears (and sleep patterns) become accustomed it is delightful, no need to wear a watch, just listen to the sounds outside.

Basque of the day:- holiday :: oporraldi

a tough week in St Jean de Luz

My bad cousin has been in St Jean de Luz for a week. His arrival coincided with a marked increase in tourist volumes and, strangely, a marked downturn in my liver quality. It has been an exhausting week of parties. The Basque town is far noisier than I have known with music playing long into the small hours. Simple tasks like walking to the market take three times longer due to pedestrian volumes as a myriad of nationalities inter-mingle, ambling along the picturesque streets. For those holidaying here it creates a wonderful carnival atmosphere. For those of us living here it is all a little challenging.

Basque of the day:- liver :: gibel

en route to St Jean de Luz

I adore lovely chance encounters. On my way home to St Jean de Luz today I sat beside a delightful lady and her husband. They live some ten minutes from me down here. As we got talking we shared a far happier and more interesting flight than would normally be the case. We have determined to establish a creative workshop for writing/reading/artwork and welcome anyone interested to get in contact (N.B. it will be in English, at least to begin with!).

It is always lovely to come home. I did note however, that having just spent a little time in a major city that St Jean de Luz is up there with the most hectic of urban centres during the summer months. Fabulously envigorating. Tomorrow sees the arrival of my young cousin, he is a terrible influence and I fear for my liver.

Basque of the day:- alcohol :: alkohol

all change in St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz is a bipolar town.

From mid September till the start of July there is a local Basque population of some thirteen thousand. During the summer months the population trebles as erstwhile empty apartments and houses are crammed with second home owners and tourists. It is wonderful for the local economy and a significant culture shock for those of us who live here year round.

Take Rue Gambetta. On any given spring afternoon it is a pleasant street filled with lovely shops and locals who spend time idly chattering with one another. Shift forward two months and the street is a chaotic melange of malcoordinated pedestrians and young children running at full pelt endangering all with their toppling ice creams. It is still a wonderful place, just different.

Basque of the day:- change :: aldaketa

yanks in St Jean de Luz

I felt I attained local status for the first time today in St Jean de Luz. There is an external perception that the Basque's are rude and not to be trusted, I suspect this jaundiced lie was started by the anti-Basque governments of the mid C20. Anyway, sometimes it is good to give people what they expect.

As I walked down Rue Gambetta I heard a very loud and obnoxious American couple. They were saying things like "gee, it's nice here, but it would be nicer if it was bigger." You get the gist. As I walked towards them I could see they were intending to stop me. "Do you know where the market is?" they asked in their best English. No 'excuse me', 'hello' or slightest attempt to speak French. Riled, I shrugged my shoulders, "je ne comprends pas" and looked blankly into their podgy round faces. "D-o Y-o-u K-n-o-w W-h-e-r-e T-h-e M-a-r-k-e-t I-s?" they repeated more loudly. I was utterly embarrassed to be an English speaker. I continued with my glazed look, shrugged my shoulders again, made a slight noise through puckered lips and walked on.

It felt fabulous. Not simply for having resisted ignorance but also basking in a warm glow of satisfaction. By not letting the oversized Americans know where the market was I saved them from further calorific content. They should thank me.

Basque of the day:- fat :: gantz

St Jean de Luz lite

Another tough day in St Jean de Luz. After a lie-in, I felt I had earned it, I went for a run along the beach and a quick dip before the tourists arrived en masse. The beach is comfortably busy till lunchtime, thereafter it's a no-go zone for locals. At lunchtime I caught up with Pascale and Bruno. Opting for a delicious breast of duck it was only once I'd finished it that I remembered I have a dinner party this evening. To make amends we went for an ice cream. The five day festival in Bayonne starts tonight, I aim to pay a visit tomorrow.I do find it strange when people ask if you are 'off anywhere nice', especially with regards to holidays. One has to assume that the average person prefers to go somewhere that is not a nightmarish disease ridden manifestation of hell. Of course they are going somewhere nice, or at least somewhere they want to go. It is a little like signing off an email saying 'many thanks'. How many thanks is that? You have to assume it's more than two or you would have said 'a couple of thanks' and probably more than three else you would have said 'a few thanks'. Both of these sound weaker than simply saying 'thanks' so are we to assume that 'many thanks' is a huge number? Bear in mind that if it were too many it might sound like you were being disingenuous. It's tricky.

Basque of the day:- language :: hizkuntza

kids in St Jean de Luz

I have just spent a wonderful five days in St Jean de Luz with my good friends Peter and Nicola and their two young boys. Not having children myself I had seriously underestimated how much work is involved, it's exhausting. However, tiring as it was it was lovely to show friends around the Basque country. I even managed to convey just how stressful my life down here is. In search of a supermarket Nicola and I set forth to Spain. In order to reduce the risk of adverse stress we first headed to San Sebastian for tapas, ice cream and a walk on the beach. This gave us the required energy and ensured tranquility.

Otherwise, time has been spent enjoying the wonderful weather whilst building sandcastles and bodysurfing. St Jean de Luz has truly blossomed into tourist season. I had not factored on how challenging it can be living in a town that is visited by so many people. A simple visit to the baker in the morning takes twice as long: the queue is that much longer and the streets that much busier. It did add to the sense of fun and I think that the boys in particular enjoyed the happy atmosphere.

We exchanged views on whether it is better or not to have children, it seems as though the grass is always greener and that it suits some more than others, we were all happy with our lot. There is seemingly a higher than average proportion of people in the Basque country who do not have children. The blood type common to people in these parts is reported to not be optimal for holding a pregnancy. As such it is relatively normal for husbands and wifes to remain as couples which given the social demands of St Jean de Luz is probably just as well!

Basque of the day:- children :: izenaren

still no rain in St Jean de Luz

The flower beds in St Jean de Luz are beginning to look a little parched. The local cats are hiding in the shade. The local people are hiding beneath canopies. Only tourists are seen out in the midday sun, and they are not all mad dogs or Englishmen.

As I tried in vain to keep cool this evening I was reading on my terrace with half an eye on the mountains hoping in vain to see clouds forming. As the light began to fade I noticed a shadow circling overhead. A red kite was rising and falling on the thermals rising out of the streets. They are magnificent birds with a wingspan not far short of two metres. They feast on small rodents so I am assuming there are a few mice braving the streets while the cats hide. A lovely end to the day, and strangely enough the local pigeon community were in hiding.

Basque of the day:- predator :: harrapari

St Jean de Luz melts

My goodness has it been hot today in St Jean de Luz. The Basque town served up temperatures that exceeded 36C. It was cooler to keep the windows firmly shut (and sit in a bath full of ice).

Despite endeavouring to have a productive day, everything took a little longer. Looking out of the window even the erstwhile panic-shopping was being undertaken at a more leisurely pace in the myriad of fashionable stores along Rue Gambetta.

It was a day for moving slowly and listening to Sailing By. I am guessing that the forementioned storm will be hitting us soon, it has to break sometime, please...

Basque of the day:- sweat :: izerdi

accepted in St Jean de Luz

This weekend in St Jean de Luz reminded me exactly why it is that I live in the Basque country. It wasn't the glorious weather that made it so, nor the long mornings spent on the beach, nor the idle hours chattering in cafes with new friends. It wasn't the continuous stream of ever varying music or pleasant views, both mountainous and feminine. As usual it came down to a new experience.

On Saturday I was invited to join a group of Pascale's friends at the Fête des Canards in nearby Urrugne. Cunningly a sardine festival is also held that night in central St Jean de Luz, this diverts the tourists and enables the Urrugne event to be almost exclusively local Basque, with the exception of a random Scotsman. Arriving early I walked up the hill into town. All roads had been closed as twenty or so long trestle tables (each sitting thirty) were laid out in the place and adjacent streets. As I had seen the previous week at the tuna event each table was linked to an association. I had been forewarned that we would be with the sports association thereby guaranteeing excess alcohol.

Having your own friends is one thing but to be wholly embraced by a new set of friends is quite a heart-warming experience (thank you Pascale). To a person the gathering made delightful company. Settling to dinner (after a few warm up aperitifs) my French was truly tested to the full. Dinner consisted of pâté, 'sein de canard en sauce à poivre avec du riz et la saucisse' and the obligatory gateau Basque and brebis cheese to follow. Washed down by several bottles of rosé (I had unwittingly been seated near the drinkers), the music started and we were all in gear to dance. In between dancing and singing an endless flow of coffee and paxtaran fueled us beyond midnight.

It was the first time I had truly felt welcomed and not seen as a tourist. Though still a stranger, I am happy with this status, it is what I am. I knew and recognised a good deal of the other revellers, and they are beginning to recognise and accept me. My French was far from perfect but during the course of the evening I was able to discuss the psychology of the female mind with a group of ladies. I put this down to drink rather than any special ability as I have never been able to discuss this subject intelligibly in English.

Basque of the day:- acceptance :: onespen

St Jean de Luz saved

Well the mega storm forecast for St Jean de Luz was a bit of a damp squib, especially after the hurricane in January. That storm was going to take some beating.


Market day today so I stocked up on several wicker baskets full of vegetables and fruit. I also stopped for a bite of lunch at a lovely wee fish restaurant adjacent to the main market in St Jean de Luz. Started with green salad, followed with grilled gambas and finished with gateau Basque. Washed down with a glass of Basque cider. Delightful.


It is still extremely busy around town which is good news for commerce. The difference between June and July is dramatic. I think I prefer the former.


Basque of the day:- crowd :: jendetza

severe weather warning in St Jean de Luz

Tonight people in St Jean de Luz and the surrounding area were contacted by the authorities to warn them of an impending storm. We are to baton down the hatches, unplug all electrical items, disconnect internet and not to go outside once it starts. As I look outside at dusk there are black clouds rolling in from the Atlantic and beginning to twist themselves around the Pyreneean foothills. We shall see what the night ahead has in store. We either have a fantastic storm coming in or somebody somewhere is about to undertake a mammoth swindle. The shipping forecast will be worth listening to tonight, but then again, isn't it always...

Basque of the day:- thunder :: trumoi

firey St Jean de Luz

During the summer in St Jean de Luz they have this thing called the toro de fuego. It takes place in the main Place Louis XIV at around half ten, just as it's getting dark and just as people are starting to feel the effects of wine and champagne.

Basically, the street lights go out and a man dressed in a wicker bull costume runs through the crowds with fireworks issuing forth from his mask. Given there were around five hundred in the square this evening this was quite some task.

There is a lot of noise, a good deal of frivolity and much singed hair. Absolutely no health and safety. I love the Basque country.

Basque of the day:- political correctness :: [does not translate]

Bastille Day in St Jean de Luz

No readily evident heads of monarchy to be seen littering St Jean de Luz today but everybody was in fine spirits enjoying a day off work (except the shopkeepers and cafe owners who were rubbing their hands gleefully). While President Sarkozy was orchestrating events in Paris, St Jean de Luz held its own more subtle celebrations.

Festivities began at nine in the morning when the annual swim across the bay took place. Around five hundred willing participants swam the two kilometres from Socoa to St Jean de Luz. It was a little too competitive for me, next year perhaps. I settled for a shorter version along the beach and at a far more sedate pace.

Next up the local war and Resistance veterans together with serving members of the forces paraded in Place Louis XIV. As always the mayor was present to oversee proceedings. This was followed by our very own Fabienne (centre of photo). She had arranged a Flamenco dance spectacle on the central stage and together with a host of our ever so slightly more proficient dancers awed the adoring tourists.

The afternoon was more leisurely as families took long lunches together followed by worthy promenades. This evening the town and its many visitors took to the beach, there was barely room to sit. It was a balmy evening with a little wind which whipped up some nice waves. Set to this oceanic backdrop the fort at Socoa began the feux artifice accompanied by a range of more popular opera arias. Watching the multitude of colours explode high above the sea was wonderful. The ten second delay while the sound of bursting rockets reached us added to the fun. In reply St Jean de Luz responded with its own magnificent display. I could sense a little local rivalry going on and expect that over the years each town has tried to outclass the other.

The day has ended and I have seen no tricoteuse or replica guillotines though did see a cigar being cut at one of the swankier restaurants.

Basque of the day:- French Revolution :: Frantziako Iraultza

fishy goings on in St Jean de Luz

With my wife back in St Jean de Luz this weekend was far from quiet. Our good friend Clare was also visiting again (see first ever blog entry) and we used this as an excuse to maximise every moment. The weather smiled upon us allowing a weekend largely spent outdoors.

Saturday saw a day on the beach. It is Bastille Day on Tuesday and so town was full to overflowing with second homeowners from Paris and tourists from further afield. As usual they were taking a (very) long weekend, using Monday as another 'pont' day bridging the weekend and public holiday. Our usually quiet beach was crammed with barely enough space to lay down a towel. As such we three decided it was more spacious in the sea and spent several hours swimming leisurely up and down the bay. It didn't cross our minds to worry about the security of our belongings, such is the feel good factor in St Jean de Luz. In the evening the annual Tuna Festival took place. Our friends Pascale and Bruno (together with aforementioned delightful children) kindly agreed to show us the ropes.

For the event town is wholly pedestrianised. Every available space is bedecked in long tables (each sitting around sixty). Adjacent to each set of tables, usually three or four, is a cooking area. Each of the associations from St Jean de Luz takes an area and serves up a set menu which unsurprisingly is centred around tuna, in our case with a lovely piperade Basquaise. The rugby club is next to the literary association which is next to the bakers association and so forth. Bruno selected one of his friends' areas and we were not disappointed.

There were four or five larger such areas in town; the main square, the quayside and two car parks. Each had its own stage and we were entertained by a host of Basque music while we ate. Afterwards we joined in with some Basque dancing stopping only to partake in a glass or two of patxaran or manzana. By eleven o'clock the crest of the evening's wave had passed and the erstwhile wonderfully behaved hoards of children who had helped generate a familial feel were beginning to tire. Pascale and Bruno made their exit and we three headed to a cocktail bar and managed to lose several hours deep in gossip and idle banter.

Sunday again rose with the sun high in the sky (well it was by the time we finally awoke, somewhat dehydrated). Heading to the beach we caught up with friends and I whiled away the day building sand castles and gigantic sand volcanoes - fabulous. In the evening Pascale and Bruno hosted a soiree at their lovely home in the foothills of La Rhune. We met a variety of interesting, intriguing and very pleasant people but more importantly enjoyed an opportunity to sample Pascale's amazing culinary skills. Crab breads, tuna wraps, marinated prawns, freshly baked macarons, chocolate gateau Basque to name but some. It had been another wonderous weekend in the Basque country filled with new experiences, tastes and acquaintances. Clare in particular was overjoyed at being able to live a local life in an amazing corner of the world that differs ever so slightly from central London. We even managed to avoid sunburn.

Basque of the day:- local :: bertako

returns to St Jean de Luz

A happy day in St Jean de Luz. Today I get my wife back. She has been held hostage by Willy Wonka for the last three weeks. He kidnapped her from a shoe shop in London. He has agreed an exchange in return for a gateau Basque recipe (I made one up) and promised that she will return with plentiful supplies of cocoa products.

Basque of the day:- chocolate :: txokolate

St Jean de Luz conundrum

Today was a frustrating day in St Jean de Luz. When we arrived here we determined to open a bank account with a self proclaimed 'global' bank. Its offer to enable simple hassle free transfers between UK and French accounts was music to our frustrated ears. After five branch meetings, fourteen emails, twelve telephone calls and four letters I am still unable to transfer funds. Each correspondence promises that next time it will get sorted.

I had a flash-back this morning to a recent late night out. I disctinctly recall standing in a bar talking to a stranger about Basque politics. Now, this is neither an activity or subject for the fainthearted or less intelligent (both counts rule me out). It has evolved over several centuries and is always referred to with the utmost passion. However, whenever I have asked a friend to explain it to me they have always replied "c'est difficile". Anyway, my addled mind figured my Celtic roots stood me in good stead to explore the topic and offer my inebriated wisdom on the matter. Other such discussions have always tapered off, this one did not and my fellow bar-stander was becoming ever more heated. Whilst most Basques hold a strong view (this merits its own entry) they are peace-loving, not so this gentleman. Around this point I hazily remember becoming mildly apprehensive and making excuses to leave for another bar, before doing so he handed me his details and insisted I contact him to discuss the matter further. It is this piece of paper that instigated the memory recall, needless to say the piece of paper has by now long disappeared in a trash-can out of town somewhere.

Basque of the day:- extreme :: buru

a quiet day in St Jean de Luz

Although tourist season has started in St Jean de Luz, today was a less than eventful one. I did hear a joke on the radio though that I thought was rather good...

A mummy balloon and a daddy balloon have a baby balloon. In the early days baby balloon likes to sleep snuggled up beside his mummy and daddy in their bed but as he gets bigger his parents decide it can't go on. One night though baby balloon sneaks into his parent's room as they sleep. There isn't much room so he releases a little air from daddy balloon, a little from mummy balloon and wee bit from himself. Nestling between them he falls asleep. In the morning his father is not happy.
"Look son, this is really not on. You've let me down, you've let your mother down and worst of all you've let yourself down."

Basque of the day:- joke :: txantxa

a big weekend in St Jean de Luz

This weekend in St Jean de Luz reminded me what it was like being young.

Friday night presented a dinner at the casino to celebrate the end of year at our Flamenco class. Around twenty of us ate, chatted and imbibed. During dessert some of the ladies began murmering about going dancing. Before I knew what was going on I, together with FX, was escorting a dozen lasses to a local nightclub. Reassuringly they are all friends of my wife. Top dancing skills by all as we payed homage to Mr Jackson and drank cocktails into the small hours.

Saturday was a quasi working day. There is a superb local chocolatier called Maison Adam. The proprietor had asked our choir to sing a variety of traditional Basque folk songs outside his shops in Biarritz and St Jean de Luz. The lovely girls from the shop presented us with copious amounts of red wine, chocolate and macarons to assist replenishment of our energy levels. A fair crowd of Biarritz locals and visitors stopped to listen as a we ran through a fine array of Basque folk songs. We sang for an hour in Biarritz which largely served as a warm up. Six o'clock approached so we headed back to our cars and sped back down the coast to St Jean de Luz.

More wine and cake awaited us, as did a far more substantial crowd. This time there was the added challenge of our knowing a good deal many of the passers by, even the mayor stopped by to congratulate us. By now our voices were finely tuned and we did ourselves proud. Starting in rue Gambetta we moved up the street and camped at Place Louis XIV where even more wine and macarons awaited. The cafes were full of pre dinner revellers taking aperitifs so the crowd was significant. Given the applause I think we were very well received. Around eight we headed back to our HQ in the port.

My fellow choristers are from a myriad of vocational backgrounds. Drawing upon our strengths we pulled together a dinner to welcome in the summer, it seemed like a good enough reason. Central on the large square table sat three groaning trenchers. In each, on beds of ice, sat a fresh and plentiful selection of 'fruits de mer'. Given the external backdrop, fishing boats and fisheries, decoration inside, fishing nets and whaling hooks, the food tasted even finer as we tucked into gambas, oysters, scallops, clams and perriwinkles. Four cases of champagne that had been chilling overnight arrived and were deposited in a large vat of ice within ready reach of the ever thirsty throng. Following the seafood plates of charcuterie arrived, boudin noire was prepared and a stew of fish gills and onion distributed. Fellow patissiers prepared a mountain of cakes and mousses for dessert. By now we fourteen had each consumed a bottle of champagne but still more poured forth. It was a sublime dinner and something I truly did not expect to have been party to. Being accepted into the choir has opened many doors that remain locked to other less inclined outsiders.

The table cleared we again broke into song, each of us taking it in turn to lead a song of choice. I did my very best to provide three Scottish songs, but in all honesty by now things had started to get hazy. At one in the morning we tidied up tables and closed up shop. A phone call was made and the local police waved us across the bridge, turning a blind eye to our less than sobre driving. St Jean de Luz is a place where who you know is what matters most. Arriving at a small bar in the heart of town we set up camp and remained ensconsed there until the sun had risen again the following day. This is the kind of job I have always wanted.

Basque of the day:- hangover :: biharamun