Showing posts with label chocolate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chocolate. Show all posts

Monday, 6 July 2009

a big weekend in St Jean de Luz

This weekend in St Jean de Luz reminded me what it was like being young.

Friday night presented a dinner at the casino to celebrate the end of year at our Flamenco class. Around twenty of us ate, chatted and imbibed. During dessert some of the ladies began murmering about going dancing. Before I knew what was going on I, together with FX, was escorting a dozen lasses to a local nightclub. Reassuringly they are all friends of my wife. Top dancing skills by all as we payed homage to Mr Jackson and drank cocktails into the small hours.

Saturday was a quasi working day. There is a superb local chocolatier called Maison Adam. The proprietor had asked our choir to sing a variety of traditional Basque folk songs outside his shops in Biarritz and St Jean de Luz. The lovely girls from the shop presented us with copious amounts of red wine, chocolate and macarons to assist replenishment of our energy levels. A fair crowd of Biarritz locals and visitors stopped to listen as a we ran through a fine array of Basque folk songs. We sang for an hour in Biarritz which largely served as a warm up. Six o'clock approached so we headed back to our cars and sped back down the coast to St Jean de Luz.

More wine and cake awaited us, as did a far more substantial crowd. This time there was the added challenge of our knowing a good deal many of the passers by, even the mayor stopped by to congratulate us. By now our voices were finely tuned and we did ourselves proud. Starting in rue Gambetta we moved up the street and camped at Place Louis XIV where even more wine and macarons awaited. The cafes were full of pre dinner revellers taking aperitifs so the crowd was significant. Given the applause I think we were very well received. Around eight we headed back to our HQ in the port.

My fellow choristers are from a myriad of vocational backgrounds. Drawing upon our strengths we pulled together a dinner to welcome in the summer, it seemed like a good enough reason. Central on the large square table sat three groaning trenchers. In each, on beds of ice, sat a fresh and plentiful selection of 'fruits de mer'. Given the external backdrop, fishing boats and fisheries, decoration inside, fishing nets and whaling hooks, the food tasted even finer as we tucked into gambas, oysters, scallops, clams and perriwinkles. Four cases of champagne that had been chilling overnight arrived and were deposited in a large vat of ice within ready reach of the ever thirsty throng. Following the seafood plates of charcuterie arrived, boudin noire was prepared and a stew of fish gills and onion distributed. Fellow patissiers prepared a mountain of cakes and mousses for dessert. By now we fourteen had each consumed a bottle of champagne but still more poured forth. It was a sublime dinner and something I truly did not expect to have been party to. Being accepted into the choir has opened many doors that remain locked to other less inclined outsiders.

The table cleared we again broke into song, each of us taking it in turn to lead a song of choice. I did my very best to provide three Scottish songs, but in all honesty by now things had started to get hazy. At one in the morning we tidied up tables and closed up shop. A phone call was made and the local police waved us across the bridge, turning a blind eye to our less than sobre driving. St Jean de Luz is a place where who you know is what matters most. Arriving at a small bar in the heart of town we set up camp and remained ensconsed there until the sun had risen again the following day. This is the kind of job I have always wanted.

Basque of the day:- hangover :: biharamun

Sunday, 8 February 2009

winning chocolate, losing match

Eglise St Jean-Baptiste was busy today. The service was themed around help and recovery for those ill or disabled. Very lovely as always. Being the birthday of our friend Jane, she, Maria and I ventured out of St Jean de Luz for lunch. She took us to her favourite Basque restaurant, La Plancha in Ilbarritz, some 5 kilometres up the coast towards Biarritz. The delightful eatery is located right on the beach and we sat in full view of the splendidly aggressive ocean. After an ever delicious platter of Bayonne hams I opted for gambas while the girls chose sea bream. We washed this down with a bottle of local vin blanc in anticipation of the famous desserts La Plancha offers. Jane had a strawberry flan, Maria brebis cheese with a cherry coulis and I had a magnificent chocolate brownie complete with chocolate sauce, ice-cream and chantilly - marvellous!La Plancha has been around for some twenty years and the owners also run a very Gucci nightclub next door. Given its position in a wee cove the club can safely party in splendid isolation and attracts the cream of local and visiting society, particularly during the summer months. We look forward to some late nights dancing by the sea when the nights become shorter.

Scotland play Wales at rugby in the 6 Nations this afternoon so I have sent the girls out shopping whilst I enjoy the match. Bad move, it is currently Sco 13 - 26 Wales with 10 minutes remaining. I did note my friend Grant in the Edinburgh crowd celebrating Wales' first try.

Basque of the day:- lose :: erotu

Friday, 5 December 2008

at last, the holy grail of hot chocolates

Father flew in today from Scandinavia bringing a cold gale with him, he is always very generous like that. Lovely to have my parents in town and they both seem to adore St Jean de Luz, being a relatively good son that did make me feel good. The four of us opted to do some visiting so headed out in the car to explore the nearby cities of Biarritz and Bayonne.

I truly love Biarritz, it doesn't do much for me but it does attract most of the British tourists and stops them coming to St Jean de Luz. Truly it's not a bad place, it has fabulous waves and a wonderful rugby club, however, we opted to spend our time in Bayonne. This is a great city. Excellent shopping, lovely architecture and thanks to Pascale's recommendation I have now found the new #1 hot chocolate! My quest for the ultimate hot chocolate is in many ways more challenging than climbing a mountain or running a marathon. In both those instances success can be gauged, one knows if one climbs the highest mountain or breaks a marathon record but one never knows if they have tasted the best hot chocolate. My pursuit is selfless.

If ever you find yourself in Bayonne head for Cafe Cazenave on Rue Pont-Neuf. The chocolate arrives like no other I have seen on my quest so far. The thick froth is teetering over the top of your cup, a wee dish of cream is served on the side (for ultra calorific extra tastiness) and it is served with a warm brioche to dip into the delicious brown molten joy. It is so worth all those morning runs to enjoy moments like this guilt free...

Thursday, 13 November 2008

hot hot chocolates

St Jean de Luz finally admitted it was autumn today. The leaves quickly shed their green in favour of this season's colours: red, orange, gold and yellow. Somebody forgot to let the weather
know as it rebounded from yesterday and was actually warm. We even saw people other than ourselves swimming in the sea. Somebody also forgot to inform Mother Nature as a very happy bumblebee idled its way across our terrace as I sat reading this afternoon.
I continued my medical theme and successfully navigated various linguistical challenges. In case anyone visits a physio or radiologist in France the following phrases may prove useful:
- "Je ne détonerai pas si je fais prendre une photographie de rayon X"
- "J'avais l'habitude d'avoir huit jambes mais un petit enfant a retiré six"
- "Combien de temps est-ce que je devrais exposer un chat au rayonnement avant qu'il ait été dangereux?"
- "Ce n'est pas ma jambe que vous massez"
Onto my primary challenge and daily stress. In my truly selfless way over the last month I have given myself the honourably horrific and presidentially petrifying task of determing which establishment in Pays Basque serves up the the best hot chocolate. So far my top 5 reads as follows, in descending order (all SJdL unless stated):
5. Cafe Vauban - highly passable beverage, particularly enjoyable for accompanying an hour or so reading Le Figaro, could be more chocolately and/or be served with a chocolate on the side.
4. Le Majestic - similar to Vauban's in quality and stature but jumps a place given its people watching possibilities in the main square.
3. Pâtisserie Etchebaster - thick and creamy and they sell great cakes!
2. Atelier du Chocolat - the best of both chocolate worlds, a chocolate shop that sells great products and also mixes and makes hot chocolate for your enjoyment...but you have to take away.
1. Parador de Hondarribia - a C10th castle across the border en Espagne, this is truly the king of hot chocolates, thick, creamy, sticky, heart chokingly excellent and in wonderful surroundings (I believe most Paradores share the secret recipe).
I hope somebody appreciates the pain I am putting myself through to generate this league table. The quest shall go on.

Sunday, 2 November 2008

hot chocolate and roasted chicken

A wetter day in St Jean de Luz. Thankfully the rain was driving so hard that its rythym stirred us around ten. At least it gave us enough time to dress and head along the sodden Rue Gambetta to the wonderful church of Saint Jean-Baptiste. Louis XIV got married to Infanta Marie-Therese here in 1660 and subsequently bricked up the door he and his infanta wife exited by so that no-one else could get married and leave by the same means - brilliant! There is something really lovely about the way this church brings people together and the service is conducted in a mix of French and Basque which adds to the interest factor. The church itself is also quite special, lots of wood throughout and it is a great example of the duality of design - using a ship's hull as the basis for constructing a church. There are also three tiers of wooden balconies, one suspects the wedding was a well attended event. I don't understand Catholicism being a Scottish Presbyterian but I do love the ritualistic elements, very interesting. It amazes and warms me that having left the UK where church was sparsely attended (mostly Christmas and christenings) that there are three services here on Sundays each drawing around 600 people. In this time of imminent recession and catapulted capitalism it's pleasing that there are still outposts of tradition and spirituality. Talking of spirituality, the other big plus about going to church is being able to go for a hot chocolate afterwards... I augmented the cocoa with a large chocolatine (pain au chocolat) and got the sugar rush I was craving.

Given the weather we headed home and roasted the vegetables and chicken we bought at the market on Friday. Clare and Alex left this afternoon from Biarritz airport. Fabulous as it has been having visitors this past week (Peter, one of my old college friends, was down earlier in the week - a real task master hence the running in the morning thing) it was nice having the place back to ourselves. I like it when that happens as it always makes me even happier to welcome friends in the future. The weather went from wet to wetter so we spent the remains of the day watching the rain pour in the street and on the hills and picking at the roasted leftovers. Thinking about today's service and the few words I could understand (must get back to my French studies), does the English word 'mercy' come from the French 'merci'?