sunny weekend in St Jean de Luz

As predicted the weather in St Jean de Luz has been wonderful this weekend. After a day on the beach, on Saturday evening we headed across the border to San Sebastian for tapas/pinxtos and a couple of glasses of sangria. The Spanish town is dangerously close and offers dangerously good nightlife!

Sunday was a more mellow day. Again the day was spent on the beach. By mid afternoon the beach, though busy, was nowhere like it has been. Many people were sunbathing with their luggage, catching a few last rays of sunshine before driving or taking the train home. The schools start back this week.

The last 'toro de fuego' of the season took place last night (accompanied by a very good band). We sat in the place enjoying a couple of glasses of calvados and watching the mayhem unfold. Although this marks the end of the official season, it is also the beginning of everybody's favourite month. All year our friends have been telling us how much they love September: sunny weather sans tourists!

Basque of the day:- beginning :: hasiera

Scottish weather in St Jean de Luz

As I walked through St Jean de Luz this morning the butcher stopped to greet me. He noted how happy I must be with the Scottish weather that was upon us. Indeed, following a rainy night a thick haar has come in bringing with it one of those days where it doesn't seem to be raining but you are soaked through.

There were still a few souls in the sea this morning, several joggers, shoppers, amblers and even a snail sitting on a bench having a rest from the stressful pace of life in St Jean de Luz. With the wet the temperature has come back down. This weekend promises to be excellent.

Basque of the day:- wet :: heze

the skies break over St Jean de Luz

The temperature continued to rise in St Jean de Luz today. At the moment (9pm) it has edged over 30C.

Looking up to the mountains, during the past half hour thick black clouds have started to wrap themselves around their peaks and swarm down their sides. I can usually see a couple of mountains across the border in Spain but heading up the valley is what looks like an exceedingly heavy rainstorm.

Fingers crossed for some thunder and lightning, and fingers crossed tomorrow will be a little fresher (humidity levels today were around 85%).

Basque of the day:- weather :: eguraldi

beach time in St Jean de Luz

Another hot day in St Jean de Luz. There was little else to be done other than stretch out and relax on the beach. It may have been busy but it is a fabulous way to spend the day. Surprisingly tiring too! So long as you are in situ by eleven you can guarantee a good spot.

The beach in St Jean de Luz has four excellent children's centres where parents can deposit their kids for anything from 30 minutes to a full day. The centres have a variety of beach based playthings, from trampolines and swings to climbing nets and flying-fox slides. It makes you wish you were ten again.

Basque of the day:- beach :: hondartza

the secrets of St Jean de Luz

Tonight a friend and I went to a history lecture in St Jean de Luz. It was in French but I think I caught most of it. The talk was about a variety of secrets that were designed into the architecture of the church.

Crafty were those C14th architects and seemingly very eager to push their own take on religion. Statues of saints that have been taken for granted for centuries are apparently not who they purport to be, and is the figure in the stained glass window really the Enfanta?

Basque of the day:- mystery :: misterio

shifting down a gear in St Jean de Luz

There was a further change of pace in St Jean de Luz today. This morning the last of my summer guests departed. Every day for the last three months I have had visitors. It is lovely to entertain and I am incredibly fortunate to have so many wonderful friends and family, but it is equally delightful now that they have all gone! There is a mounting buzz amongst the locals that the season is drawing to a close. By all accounts this summer has been far busier than normal which is great news for the town.Similarly to the St Jean de Luz festival that takes place before the season starts, there are a couple of festivals taking place to mark the end of the season too. These promise to be well-attended events where the local Basques can let their hair down after working hard over the summer months. The social scene here is very different in the summer months. Many of the friends I spend time with throughout the year are unavailable or simply too tired so I am looking forward to catching up with everyone again soon.

Basque of the day:- local :: tokiko

lazing on a Sunday afternoon

The end of the St Jean de Luz 'season' is around the corner. Over the weekend the volume of tourists and second-home-residents has been falling steadily. However, the vibrancy that has filled St Jean de Luz throughout the summer remains.

This morning a Spanish brass band woke me as they marched down the street. Tonight as I get ready to go to bed a Basque open-air dinner is offering up a variety of songs and beyond that the toro del fuego is in full flow in Place Louis XIV.

By next weekend St Jean de Luz will be back to its normal self.

Basque of the day:- end :: buru

forray into Spain

Leaving the lovely beach of St Jean de Luz behind we headed south across the border to enjoy a lovely day (and evening) in St Sebastian - or Donostia as it is known in Basque.

It is one of the most wonderfiul places to simply wander around and soak up the atmosphere. The city is very much a new town until you break its shell and enter the wild yolk of its old town, complete with a dazzling array of religious venues and eateries.

After several hours on the beach we decided to prowl the old town and found a most excellent bar to take tapas: beef, pork, gambas, chipirons, poulet. All washed down with several glasses of sangria. A wonderful sortie.

Basque of the day:- escape :: ihes

sporting exploits in St Jean de Luz

During the summer in St Jean de Luz there is a good deal of sport on offer. Twice a week the 'jai alai' hosts major cesta punta matches that are part of the season long league. The game is traditionally Basque, involves two teams of two men with long baskets (xisteras) attached to their arm. The court is roughly 3x the size of a squash court with 3 walls (front, side, back). Each team must throw the ball (pelota) against the front wall. The other team has one bounce before it has to do likewise. If the ball bounces twice or falls outside set lines the point is lost.

St Jean de Luz also offers two more traditional pelota matches each week. These are held at the 'fronton municipal' (council run pelota stadium). Rugby is also rife throughout town, and the entire Basque region. St Jean de Luz has a good team though the stronger local teams in Biarritz and Bayonne steal most of the attention. Fitter people surf along the coast, the Atlantic presents some excellent waves. A huge volume of people go running or walking daily. Basically, the Basques seem to embrace and partake in a lot of sport. Given the number of parties held this is very necessary to look after the figure.Basque of the day:- sport :: kirol

the sounds of St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz is at it's peak this week. It is coming towards the end of the school holidays and every bed in the Basque country is filled with happy families holidaying in the eternal sun. Having been initially shocked by the tidal wave of 'etrangers' I have learned to embrace the feeling and go with the flow. The speed of change has been dramatic. Even as recently as the start of August it was easy to find a seat at the cafe or restaurant of your choice. At the moment I am booking a day in advance and only frequenting bars where I know the staff so that they look after me (a huge perk). The only drawback is the beach. Unless you are in place before lunchtime it is almost impossible to find a space for your towel.

It is an important time for the town. The majority of revenue is generated during this month. The shopkeepers are displaying their finest wares. Today, to increase the shopping frenzy there has been a 'braderie' (sale). Tables are laid out along the streets and vendors pedal their wares accordingly. Amongst the happy holidaymakers groups of musicians set up camp and delight their ever flowing audiences with a wide range of styles.

St Jean de Luz is alive with noise twenty four hours a day. The last of the late night revellers can be heard staggering home as the bakeries start-up their ovens at six. Local businesses carry out their trades during the morning. The afternoon and early evening is given to promenading. Late evening and early morning are the hours for the younger visitors as they drink, sing and fool around in the many bars and parks. There are also a myriad of splendid and often bizarre fetes that take place in the evenings. Once your ears (and sleep patterns) become accustomed it is delightful, no need to wear a watch, just listen to the sounds outside.

Basque of the day:- holiday :: oporraldi

a tough week in St Jean de Luz

My bad cousin has been in St Jean de Luz for a week. His arrival coincided with a marked increase in tourist volumes and, strangely, a marked downturn in my liver quality. It has been an exhausting week of parties. The Basque town is far noisier than I have known with music playing long into the small hours. Simple tasks like walking to the market take three times longer due to pedestrian volumes as a myriad of nationalities inter-mingle, ambling along the picturesque streets. For those holidaying here it creates a wonderful carnival atmosphere. For those of us living here it is all a little challenging.

Basque of the day:- liver :: gibel

en route to St Jean de Luz

I adore lovely chance encounters. On my way home to St Jean de Luz today I sat beside a delightful lady and her husband. They live some ten minutes from me down here. As we got talking we shared a far happier and more interesting flight than would normally be the case. We have determined to establish a creative workshop for writing/reading/artwork and welcome anyone interested to get in contact (N.B. it will be in English, at least to begin with!).

It is always lovely to come home. I did note however, that having just spent a little time in a major city that St Jean de Luz is up there with the most hectic of urban centres during the summer months. Fabulously envigorating. Tomorrow sees the arrival of my young cousin, he is a terrible influence and I fear for my liver.

Basque of the day:- alcohol :: alkohol

all change in St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz is a bipolar town.

From mid September till the start of July there is a local Basque population of some thirteen thousand. During the summer months the population trebles as erstwhile empty apartments and houses are crammed with second home owners and tourists. It is wonderful for the local economy and a significant culture shock for those of us who live here year round.

Take Rue Gambetta. On any given spring afternoon it is a pleasant street filled with lovely shops and locals who spend time idly chattering with one another. Shift forward two months and the street is a chaotic melange of malcoordinated pedestrians and young children running at full pelt endangering all with their toppling ice creams. It is still a wonderful place, just different.

Basque of the day:- change :: aldaketa

yanks in St Jean de Luz

I felt I attained local status for the first time today in St Jean de Luz. There is an external perception that the Basque's are rude and not to be trusted, I suspect this jaundiced lie was started by the anti-Basque governments of the mid C20. Anyway, sometimes it is good to give people what they expect.

As I walked down Rue Gambetta I heard a very loud and obnoxious American couple. They were saying things like "gee, it's nice here, but it would be nicer if it was bigger." You get the gist. As I walked towards them I could see they were intending to stop me. "Do you know where the market is?" they asked in their best English. No 'excuse me', 'hello' or slightest attempt to speak French. Riled, I shrugged my shoulders, "je ne comprends pas" and looked blankly into their podgy round faces. "D-o Y-o-u K-n-o-w W-h-e-r-e T-h-e M-a-r-k-e-t I-s?" they repeated more loudly. I was utterly embarrassed to be an English speaker. I continued with my glazed look, shrugged my shoulders again, made a slight noise through puckered lips and walked on.

It felt fabulous. Not simply for having resisted ignorance but also basking in a warm glow of satisfaction. By not letting the oversized Americans know where the market was I saved them from further calorific content. They should thank me.

Basque of the day:- fat :: gantz

St Jean de Luz lite

Another tough day in St Jean de Luz. After a lie-in, I felt I had earned it, I went for a run along the beach and a quick dip before the tourists arrived en masse. The beach is comfortably busy till lunchtime, thereafter it's a no-go zone for locals. At lunchtime I caught up with Pascale and Bruno. Opting for a delicious breast of duck it was only once I'd finished it that I remembered I have a dinner party this evening. To make amends we went for an ice cream. The five day festival in Bayonne starts tonight, I aim to pay a visit tomorrow.I do find it strange when people ask if you are 'off anywhere nice', especially with regards to holidays. One has to assume that the average person prefers to go somewhere that is not a nightmarish disease ridden manifestation of hell. Of course they are going somewhere nice, or at least somewhere they want to go. It is a little like signing off an email saying 'many thanks'. How many thanks is that? You have to assume it's more than two or you would have said 'a couple of thanks' and probably more than three else you would have said 'a few thanks'. Both of these sound weaker than simply saying 'thanks' so are we to assume that 'many thanks' is a huge number? Bear in mind that if it were too many it might sound like you were being disingenuous. It's tricky.

Basque of the day:- language :: hizkuntza

kids in St Jean de Luz

I have just spent a wonderful five days in St Jean de Luz with my good friends Peter and Nicola and their two young boys. Not having children myself I had seriously underestimated how much work is involved, it's exhausting. However, tiring as it was it was lovely to show friends around the Basque country. I even managed to convey just how stressful my life down here is. In search of a supermarket Nicola and I set forth to Spain. In order to reduce the risk of adverse stress we first headed to San Sebastian for tapas, ice cream and a walk on the beach. This gave us the required energy and ensured tranquility.

Otherwise, time has been spent enjoying the wonderful weather whilst building sandcastles and bodysurfing. St Jean de Luz has truly blossomed into tourist season. I had not factored on how challenging it can be living in a town that is visited by so many people. A simple visit to the baker in the morning takes twice as long: the queue is that much longer and the streets that much busier. It did add to the sense of fun and I think that the boys in particular enjoyed the happy atmosphere.

We exchanged views on whether it is better or not to have children, it seems as though the grass is always greener and that it suits some more than others, we were all happy with our lot. There is seemingly a higher than average proportion of people in the Basque country who do not have children. The blood type common to people in these parts is reported to not be optimal for holding a pregnancy. As such it is relatively normal for husbands and wifes to remain as couples which given the social demands of St Jean de Luz is probably just as well!

Basque of the day:- children :: izenaren

still no rain in St Jean de Luz

The flower beds in St Jean de Luz are beginning to look a little parched. The local cats are hiding in the shade. The local people are hiding beneath canopies. Only tourists are seen out in the midday sun, and they are not all mad dogs or Englishmen.

As I tried in vain to keep cool this evening I was reading on my terrace with half an eye on the mountains hoping in vain to see clouds forming. As the light began to fade I noticed a shadow circling overhead. A red kite was rising and falling on the thermals rising out of the streets. They are magnificent birds with a wingspan not far short of two metres. They feast on small rodents so I am assuming there are a few mice braving the streets while the cats hide. A lovely end to the day, and strangely enough the local pigeon community were in hiding.

Basque of the day:- predator :: harrapari

St Jean de Luz melts

My goodness has it been hot today in St Jean de Luz. The Basque town served up temperatures that exceeded 36C. It was cooler to keep the windows firmly shut (and sit in a bath full of ice).

Despite endeavouring to have a productive day, everything took a little longer. Looking out of the window even the erstwhile panic-shopping was being undertaken at a more leisurely pace in the myriad of fashionable stores along Rue Gambetta.

It was a day for moving slowly and listening to Sailing By. I am guessing that the forementioned storm will be hitting us soon, it has to break sometime, please...

Basque of the day:- sweat :: izerdi

accepted in St Jean de Luz

This weekend in St Jean de Luz reminded me exactly why it is that I live in the Basque country. It wasn't the glorious weather that made it so, nor the long mornings spent on the beach, nor the idle hours chattering in cafes with new friends. It wasn't the continuous stream of ever varying music or pleasant views, both mountainous and feminine. As usual it came down to a new experience.

On Saturday I was invited to join a group of Pascale's friends at the Fête des Canards in nearby Urrugne. Cunningly a sardine festival is also held that night in central St Jean de Luz, this diverts the tourists and enables the Urrugne event to be almost exclusively local Basque, with the exception of a random Scotsman. Arriving early I walked up the hill into town. All roads had been closed as twenty or so long trestle tables (each sitting thirty) were laid out in the place and adjacent streets. As I had seen the previous week at the tuna event each table was linked to an association. I had been forewarned that we would be with the sports association thereby guaranteeing excess alcohol.

Having your own friends is one thing but to be wholly embraced by a new set of friends is quite a heart-warming experience (thank you Pascale). To a person the gathering made delightful company. Settling to dinner (after a few warm up aperitifs) my French was truly tested to the full. Dinner consisted of pâté, 'sein de canard en sauce à poivre avec du riz et la saucisse' and the obligatory gateau Basque and brebis cheese to follow. Washed down by several bottles of rosé (I had unwittingly been seated near the drinkers), the music started and we were all in gear to dance. In between dancing and singing an endless flow of coffee and paxtaran fueled us beyond midnight.

It was the first time I had truly felt welcomed and not seen as a tourist. Though still a stranger, I am happy with this status, it is what I am. I knew and recognised a good deal of the other revellers, and they are beginning to recognise and accept me. My French was far from perfect but during the course of the evening I was able to discuss the psychology of the female mind with a group of ladies. I put this down to drink rather than any special ability as I have never been able to discuss this subject intelligibly in English.

Basque of the day:- acceptance :: onespen

St Jean de Luz saved

Well the mega storm forecast for St Jean de Luz was a bit of a damp squib, especially after the hurricane in January. That storm was going to take some beating.


Market day today so I stocked up on several wicker baskets full of vegetables and fruit. I also stopped for a bite of lunch at a lovely wee fish restaurant adjacent to the main market in St Jean de Luz. Started with green salad, followed with grilled gambas and finished with gateau Basque. Washed down with a glass of Basque cider. Delightful.


It is still extremely busy around town which is good news for commerce. The difference between June and July is dramatic. I think I prefer the former.


Basque of the day:- crowd :: jendetza

severe weather warning in St Jean de Luz

Tonight people in St Jean de Luz and the surrounding area were contacted by the authorities to warn them of an impending storm. We are to baton down the hatches, unplug all electrical items, disconnect internet and not to go outside once it starts. As I look outside at dusk there are black clouds rolling in from the Atlantic and beginning to twist themselves around the Pyreneean foothills. We shall see what the night ahead has in store. We either have a fantastic storm coming in or somebody somewhere is about to undertake a mammoth swindle. The shipping forecast will be worth listening to tonight, but then again, isn't it always...

Basque of the day:- thunder :: trumoi

firey St Jean de Luz

During the summer in St Jean de Luz they have this thing called the toro de fuego. It takes place in the main Place Louis XIV at around half ten, just as it's getting dark and just as people are starting to feel the effects of wine and champagne.

Basically, the street lights go out and a man dressed in a wicker bull costume runs through the crowds with fireworks issuing forth from his mask. Given there were around five hundred in the square this evening this was quite some task.

There is a lot of noise, a good deal of frivolity and much singed hair. Absolutely no health and safety. I love the Basque country.

Basque of the day:- political correctness :: [does not translate]

Bastille Day in St Jean de Luz

No readily evident heads of monarchy to be seen littering St Jean de Luz today but everybody was in fine spirits enjoying a day off work (except the shopkeepers and cafe owners who were rubbing their hands gleefully). While President Sarkozy was orchestrating events in Paris, St Jean de Luz held its own more subtle celebrations.

Festivities began at nine in the morning when the annual swim across the bay took place. Around five hundred willing participants swam the two kilometres from Socoa to St Jean de Luz. It was a little too competitive for me, next year perhaps. I settled for a shorter version along the beach and at a far more sedate pace.

Next up the local war and Resistance veterans together with serving members of the forces paraded in Place Louis XIV. As always the mayor was present to oversee proceedings. This was followed by our very own Fabienne (centre of photo). She had arranged a Flamenco dance spectacle on the central stage and together with a host of our ever so slightly more proficient dancers awed the adoring tourists.

The afternoon was more leisurely as families took long lunches together followed by worthy promenades. This evening the town and its many visitors took to the beach, there was barely room to sit. It was a balmy evening with a little wind which whipped up some nice waves. Set to this oceanic backdrop the fort at Socoa began the feux artifice accompanied by a range of more popular opera arias. Watching the multitude of colours explode high above the sea was wonderful. The ten second delay while the sound of bursting rockets reached us added to the fun. In reply St Jean de Luz responded with its own magnificent display. I could sense a little local rivalry going on and expect that over the years each town has tried to outclass the other.

The day has ended and I have seen no tricoteuse or replica guillotines though did see a cigar being cut at one of the swankier restaurants.

Basque of the day:- French Revolution :: Frantziako Iraultza

fishy goings on in St Jean de Luz

With my wife back in St Jean de Luz this weekend was far from quiet. Our good friend Clare was also visiting again (see first ever blog entry) and we used this as an excuse to maximise every moment. The weather smiled upon us allowing a weekend largely spent outdoors.

Saturday saw a day on the beach. It is Bastille Day on Tuesday and so town was full to overflowing with second homeowners from Paris and tourists from further afield. As usual they were taking a (very) long weekend, using Monday as another 'pont' day bridging the weekend and public holiday. Our usually quiet beach was crammed with barely enough space to lay down a towel. As such we three decided it was more spacious in the sea and spent several hours swimming leisurely up and down the bay. It didn't cross our minds to worry about the security of our belongings, such is the feel good factor in St Jean de Luz. In the evening the annual Tuna Festival took place. Our friends Pascale and Bruno (together with aforementioned delightful children) kindly agreed to show us the ropes.

For the event town is wholly pedestrianised. Every available space is bedecked in long tables (each sitting around sixty). Adjacent to each set of tables, usually three or four, is a cooking area. Each of the associations from St Jean de Luz takes an area and serves up a set menu which unsurprisingly is centred around tuna, in our case with a lovely piperade Basquaise. The rugby club is next to the literary association which is next to the bakers association and so forth. Bruno selected one of his friends' areas and we were not disappointed.

There were four or five larger such areas in town; the main square, the quayside and two car parks. Each had its own stage and we were entertained by a host of Basque music while we ate. Afterwards we joined in with some Basque dancing stopping only to partake in a glass or two of patxaran or manzana. By eleven o'clock the crest of the evening's wave had passed and the erstwhile wonderfully behaved hoards of children who had helped generate a familial feel were beginning to tire. Pascale and Bruno made their exit and we three headed to a cocktail bar and managed to lose several hours deep in gossip and idle banter.

Sunday again rose with the sun high in the sky (well it was by the time we finally awoke, somewhat dehydrated). Heading to the beach we caught up with friends and I whiled away the day building sand castles and gigantic sand volcanoes - fabulous. In the evening Pascale and Bruno hosted a soiree at their lovely home in the foothills of La Rhune. We met a variety of interesting, intriguing and very pleasant people but more importantly enjoyed an opportunity to sample Pascale's amazing culinary skills. Crab breads, tuna wraps, marinated prawns, freshly baked macarons, chocolate gateau Basque to name but some. It had been another wonderous weekend in the Basque country filled with new experiences, tastes and acquaintances. Clare in particular was overjoyed at being able to live a local life in an amazing corner of the world that differs ever so slightly from central London. We even managed to avoid sunburn.

Basque of the day:- local :: bertako

returns to St Jean de Luz

A happy day in St Jean de Luz. Today I get my wife back. She has been held hostage by Willy Wonka for the last three weeks. He kidnapped her from a shoe shop in London. He has agreed an exchange in return for a gateau Basque recipe (I made one up) and promised that she will return with plentiful supplies of cocoa products.

Basque of the day:- chocolate :: txokolate

St Jean de Luz conundrum

Today was a frustrating day in St Jean de Luz. When we arrived here we determined to open a bank account with a self proclaimed 'global' bank. Its offer to enable simple hassle free transfers between UK and French accounts was music to our frustrated ears. After five branch meetings, fourteen emails, twelve telephone calls and four letters I am still unable to transfer funds. Each correspondence promises that next time it will get sorted.

I had a flash-back this morning to a recent late night out. I disctinctly recall standing in a bar talking to a stranger about Basque politics. Now, this is neither an activity or subject for the fainthearted or less intelligent (both counts rule me out). It has evolved over several centuries and is always referred to with the utmost passion. However, whenever I have asked a friend to explain it to me they have always replied "c'est difficile". Anyway, my addled mind figured my Celtic roots stood me in good stead to explore the topic and offer my inebriated wisdom on the matter. Other such discussions have always tapered off, this one did not and my fellow bar-stander was becoming ever more heated. Whilst most Basques hold a strong view (this merits its own entry) they are peace-loving, not so this gentleman. Around this point I hazily remember becoming mildly apprehensive and making excuses to leave for another bar, before doing so he handed me his details and insisted I contact him to discuss the matter further. It is this piece of paper that instigated the memory recall, needless to say the piece of paper has by now long disappeared in a trash-can out of town somewhere.

Basque of the day:- extreme :: buru

a quiet day in St Jean de Luz

Although tourist season has started in St Jean de Luz, today was a less than eventful one. I did hear a joke on the radio though that I thought was rather good...

A mummy balloon and a daddy balloon have a baby balloon. In the early days baby balloon likes to sleep snuggled up beside his mummy and daddy in their bed but as he gets bigger his parents decide it can't go on. One night though baby balloon sneaks into his parent's room as they sleep. There isn't much room so he releases a little air from daddy balloon, a little from mummy balloon and wee bit from himself. Nestling between them he falls asleep. In the morning his father is not happy.
"Look son, this is really not on. You've let me down, you've let your mother down and worst of all you've let yourself down."

Basque of the day:- joke :: txantxa

a big weekend in St Jean de Luz

This weekend in St Jean de Luz reminded me what it was like being young.

Friday night presented a dinner at the casino to celebrate the end of year at our Flamenco class. Around twenty of us ate, chatted and imbibed. During dessert some of the ladies began murmering about going dancing. Before I knew what was going on I, together with FX, was escorting a dozen lasses to a local nightclub. Reassuringly they are all friends of my wife. Top dancing skills by all as we payed homage to Mr Jackson and drank cocktails into the small hours.

Saturday was a quasi working day. There is a superb local chocolatier called Maison Adam. The proprietor had asked our choir to sing a variety of traditional Basque folk songs outside his shops in Biarritz and St Jean de Luz. The lovely girls from the shop presented us with copious amounts of red wine, chocolate and macarons to assist replenishment of our energy levels. A fair crowd of Biarritz locals and visitors stopped to listen as a we ran through a fine array of Basque folk songs. We sang for an hour in Biarritz which largely served as a warm up. Six o'clock approached so we headed back to our cars and sped back down the coast to St Jean de Luz.

More wine and cake awaited us, as did a far more substantial crowd. This time there was the added challenge of our knowing a good deal many of the passers by, even the mayor stopped by to congratulate us. By now our voices were finely tuned and we did ourselves proud. Starting in rue Gambetta we moved up the street and camped at Place Louis XIV where even more wine and macarons awaited. The cafes were full of pre dinner revellers taking aperitifs so the crowd was significant. Given the applause I think we were very well received. Around eight we headed back to our HQ in the port.

My fellow choristers are from a myriad of vocational backgrounds. Drawing upon our strengths we pulled together a dinner to welcome in the summer, it seemed like a good enough reason. Central on the large square table sat three groaning trenchers. In each, on beds of ice, sat a fresh and plentiful selection of 'fruits de mer'. Given the external backdrop, fishing boats and fisheries, decoration inside, fishing nets and whaling hooks, the food tasted even finer as we tucked into gambas, oysters, scallops, clams and perriwinkles. Four cases of champagne that had been chilling overnight arrived and were deposited in a large vat of ice within ready reach of the ever thirsty throng. Following the seafood plates of charcuterie arrived, boudin noire was prepared and a stew of fish gills and onion distributed. Fellow patissiers prepared a mountain of cakes and mousses for dessert. By now we fourteen had each consumed a bottle of champagne but still more poured forth. It was a sublime dinner and something I truly did not expect to have been party to. Being accepted into the choir has opened many doors that remain locked to other less inclined outsiders.

The table cleared we again broke into song, each of us taking it in turn to lead a song of choice. I did my very best to provide three Scottish songs, but in all honesty by now things had started to get hazy. At one in the morning we tidied up tables and closed up shop. A phone call was made and the local police waved us across the bridge, turning a blind eye to our less than sobre driving. St Jean de Luz is a place where who you know is what matters most. Arriving at a small bar in the heart of town we set up camp and remained ensconsed there until the sun had risen again the following day. This is the kind of job I have always wanted.

Basque of the day:- hangover :: biharamun

too hot in St Jean de Luz

Today it was too hot to do anything in St Jean de Luz other than go to the beach and come home to watch Andy Murray get through to the semi-finals at Wimbledon.

Basque of the day:- heat :: bero

Biarritz beach-time

Today I ventured a little way up the coast (15km) to Biarritz. My friend FX lives in the magnificent Bellevue and boasts having the apartment closest to the beach in Biarritz. He has a unique view. Lunch at the Miremont (carpaccio de boeuf) was wonderful. We sat in the upper floor next to a large double window opening out over the beach where we spent lunchtime in conversation whilst watching bathers and surfers. (Thank you FX!)

On return I read an interesting story about swine flu. Apparently if one catches the flu now and recovers then one is immune from the harsher strain forecast to hit us next winter. As such there are seemingly 'swine flu parties' being held in the UK where groups of people gather around somebody with the virus hoping to catch it from them. Are people really that insane?

Basque of the day:- beach :: hondartza

steamy daze in St Jean de Luz

It's getting hot and sticky in St Jean de Luz, just in time for the tourist season. The beach is crammed, ice cream vendors are plying a great trade and the erstwhile sleepy streets are busy well past midnight as revellers enjoy the balmy air.

On another note. I heard a report stating that the largest private sector employer in France is McDonalds. France is also reportedly the second largest market for the fast food chain. This does not bode well for the culinary traditions and sacosanct cafe culture of the French. One hopes that the French take strike action accordingly.

Basque of the day:- dinner :: afari

deep in the Pays Basque

Leaving St Jean de Luz eaerly this morning I headed into Basque heartland of the Pyrenees with my friends Bruno and Pascale (together with their perfect children). After a two hour drive following the rhythm of the mountains we arrived at Les Gorges de Kakuetta.

One of the wildest spots in Europe, Kakuetta is described as the Amazonia of the temperate latitudes. The breathtakingly high dripping wet gorge winds through the Pyrenees for several kilometres before arriving at the Grotte aux Lacs. A stunning array of ancient stalactites and stalagmites create the feel of being in another world. Walking through the gorge is walking through history. At the entrance stands an C11th church, the gorge itself has been eroded over millenia. High above the rich vegetation has offered abundant pasture to herds of livestock over the centuries. Very little has changed in the gorge or in the surrounding villages. The sound of fauna and scent of flora have not altered. If you close your eyes you can imagine being in almost any century.

Basque of the day:- ancient :: antzinakoak

Adam Sandler in St Jean de Luz

I feel like I have entered a St Jean de Luz film set of that classic 90's movie about the 80's. Over the past two days I have spent a combined fourteen hours at the weddings of people I don't know entertaining them, singing as part of a Basque choir.

Weddings in the Pays Basque are a good deal more relaxed and social than those I experienced in the UK. People seem to turn up to (and leave) the service as and when they want, drink is ridiculously plentiful (we get paid in drink!), there are no akward silences and everybody (literally everybody) sings. The men are men and the women are beautiful.

Both weddings took place in stunning C14th churches followed by receptions on mountainside farms with breathtaking views of the Atlantic and Pyrenees. As the choir we were treated with the utmost respect, singing is serious business in these parts after all. I am confident with most of the songs but hope that presently I can stop acting like Marcel Marceau on the others. A wonderful way to experience an otherwise hidden world.

Basque of the day:- wedding :: ezteiak

Basque song

I think I passed the test to be accepted into my choir in St Jean de Luz. Midway through practice last night I was presented with one black and one white shirt with the choir emblem on them (actually very tasteful). This was followed up by an explanation that I would be singing at two venues. I had agreed to this before I realised that one is today and the other tomorrow. We are singing nine songs, I currently know seven and have just over an hour to rehearse the others. I also have to squeeze in a flamenco class before singing. It's all go.

Basque of the day:- nervous :: urduri

St Jean de Luz shopkeepers

St Jean de Luz is back to normal now after the festival. There is a ten day lull before the onslaught of tourists arrive in July. I like the fact that despite being Scottish I too am dreading the arrival of 'outsiders'. I do, however, recognise their importance. Without the plethora of wealthy visitors who will roam the streets over the next two months St Jean de Luz wouldn't be the town it is. So, to sacrifice one sixth of the year feels like a small price to pay.

My study offers me a wonderful down the main shopping street, rue Gambetta, and onto the Pyrenees beyond. There is one shopkeeper in particular I enjoy watching. A young chap, and clearly one with the ladies, he has a very pleasant lifestyle. Shop opens at 1000, closes for three hours at lunch then remains open till seven. He wears a different array of fashionable attire each day, so is clearly earning enough to make ends meet, and during open hours spends most of his time standing in the street drinking coffee, smoking cigarettes and talking to his brother shopkeepers (or any attractive girl he can persuade to dally). He seems very content with his lot although I have never actually seen him make a sale.

Basque of the day:- quiet :: isilkor

end of the St Jean de Luz festival

Monday was children's day in St Jean de Luz. The mayor laid on a massive picnic in the park for some 1,000 children. Parents attended too so it was quite some event. Throughout the day lines of children snaked through St Jean de Luz headed to and from the park. Given all the children wore identical black and red clothing, child management was reportedly quite a challenge.

Last night the festival came to an end. The 23rd June is officially the day of St Jean (which hopefully means an even longer festival next year). At ten pm Rue Garat was full of people. Lining the centre of the street were around fifty small fires aligned perfectly. The event was called the 'jumping of the fire' and everybody took it in turn to walk down the street jumping over each container. They were small so it was fairly easy. Somebody told me it will bring us all luck over the next year.

I have survived my first festival. It is quite spectacular. Music from dawn till dusk (and then till dawn), respectful wearing of black and red to celebrate, exceptional friendliness, much imbibing and yet another wonderful episode in our life in the Basque country. I probably won't miss loud bands waking me at an early hour after a heavy previous night, such as the example below which started at 0730.

Basque of the day:- tired :: nekatu

sore heads in St Jean de Luz

After last night, today was a struggle. Try as we might it was impossible to catch up on sleep. Various bands marched up and down, round and about, high and low through the streets of St Jean de Luz. Everyone was in splendid form. The locals particularly enjoy the timing of the fêtes de la St Jean as it is the last event before the tourists arrive en masse for the summer. It has served as a wonderful reminder of how friendly people are down here and how willing they are to dance or sing at the merest opportunity.

We are beginning to feel accepted and though we are cognisent that we have a long way to go before we are truly embraced we love a challenge.

Tomorrow sees a children's day with a group picnic in the park, traditional games and junior choirs performing. In the evening a very civilised concert de aperitif is taking place and I am hoping to have recovered in time.

Basque of the day:- hangover :: biharamun

fête St Jean de Luz

The St Jean de Luz festival got into full swing on Saturday. Everyone was dressed in black and red to celebrate.

The afternoon and early evening were filled with Basque dance, a host of choirs sang to us over dinner as they did the rounds, dessert was capped with the traditional tree burning, too much was drunk and too much fun had.

I danced my first Basque dance, sang Basque in public for the first time, ate wonderfully, respected traditions but drank far too much.

The music and festivities have not abated for twenty four hours and I can hear another band walking up our street as I write. Fabulous.

Basque of the day:- party :: jai

return to St Jean de Luz

Apologies for the absence. A month of family and friends is a wonderful thing but something had to give.

Tonight in St Jean de Luz the annual festival began. A hundred traditionally attired children aged between eight and twelve paraded through town beating drums and singing Basque folk songs. Watching the throng weave amongst the white buildings with their ox-blood wooden flankings whisked us back in time. Thankfully our good friends Pascale and Bruno were on hand to take us to a bar, ply us with wine and bring us back to the present day.

Tomorrow promises the main event starting with our friends dancing in the main square followed by twenty four hours of partying in the streets of St Jean de Luz. Not quite the streets of San Francisco but a lot more fun.

Basque of the day:- return :: itzultze

changing weather in St Jean de Luz

We saw clouds in St Jean de Luz this evening for the first time in a wee while. Tonight as we walked along the beach, the Atlantic was threatening to throw rain (at least) in our direction. Besides the red sky that undoubtedly delighted many a shepherdess I am going to bed uncertain as to what weather I will awaken to tomorrow. An early night is required, three days after the festival ended my legs are still recovering.

Basque of the day:- muscle :: muskulu

holidays end in St Jean de Luz

St Jean de Luz is beginning to return to normal after its weekend of Flamenco. I on the other hand am still excited and filled with child-like joy after our exploits. I still can't quite believe that Fabienne got us to a position where we were able to confidently dance in public. Today we saw quite a few people who had witnessed our first forrays into the world of Flamenco. Far from laughing they neared congratulations.

The holiday weekend has finished, schools are back, 'les etrangers' have returned to their 'etrange' lands but far from being downbeat there is already talk of the Fete de St Jean de Luz which takes place on June 20th. It alleges to be some event.

In advance of that we have a myriad of friends coming to stay starting this week with a rowdy bunch. During the summer months, sleep is at a premium.

Basque of the day:- visitors :: bisitari

Flamenco parade in St Jean de Luz

The second day of the Andalou Festival in St Jean de Luz was outstanding. We began early with a service at the church. An Andalusian choir with 20 singers (and castanets) replaced the usual church organ, the first five pews were filled with children wearing Spanish dress rather than the usual more formally attired and mature congregation. As we were part of the Flamenco event (I dressed in black, my good lady in a yellow Spanish dress with rose in hair) we were sitting with the other adult dancers behind the children. We were a formidable sight. Halfway through the service, after our friend FX had spoken eloquently, 100 children danced sevillianas in the aisles, even the priest was clapping to the rhythm. The service concluded and we exited behind the choir boys, headed for the main square by now we were some 200 strong.

The police had cordoned off the centre of Place Louis XIV. The band-stand held musicians who readily struck up as we filled the central arena. Around the perimeter were 20 horses whose riders were dressed in traditional Spanish garb, stunning. Beyond them, and beyond the police perimeter some 600 locals and tourists watched on eagerly. For six months this is what we had been training for. For six months Fabiana has been saintly in her patience. Could we perform in public and retain a modicum of pride? Our fellow dancers ensured we did and with their support our confidence grew. After half an hour I even heard shouts of bravo from the crowd, and I knew it wasn't my mother, she was definitely in Scotland.

The horses began to organise themselves. Filing five abreast we lined up behind the riders and began a tour of St Jean de Luz stopping in various places to break into dance. We passed our apartment and many friends before arriving at the 'casetas' for an afternoon of dancing, drinking and tapas.

If you'd told me 3 years ago that I would learn to dance Flamenco and during the course of a day dance in front of more than 1,000 people and look back on that day as one of my finest, I'd have said you were mad. Fabiana, you are a superstar.

Basque of the day:- happy :: zoriontsu