Friday, 27 March 2009
petites vacances
Thursday, 26 March 2009
La Plancha, Ilbarritz
It is nestled in a stunning wee cove looking out across the Atlantic. On days like today it is perfect. The smell of warm air mixing with the waves as they crash on the beach exhausted after their trip from New York is enough to make even the grumpiest of bears smile. We had a fab table on the beach and ordered with gusto. Maria: gambas in garlic cream & dourade; Mother: house salad & steak; Father: anchovies & dourade; me: mixed salad & gambas. The desserts here are truly to die for. Although we were more than replete after our ever stunning main course we shared four between us: tirimasu (which we declared the best ever), chocolate brownie in chocolate sauce with chocolate ice cream, raspberry creme tart, brebis with a fruit coulis. We ended lunch seven hours ago and are yet to eat another thing.
Given our departure for a few days Mother Bear has agreed to take over writing the blog in our absence. I apologise in advance for any cussing, crassness or generally untowards language.
Basque of the day:- meal :: otordu
mon cher
Those working in tourism appear confident that 'le crise' will not affect them. However, when I explain this basic shift in economics they begin to worry and appreciate that perhaps even St Jean de Luz may be affected by world affairs, certainly in terms of foreign visitor volumes.
Basque of the day:- money :: diru
Tuesday, 24 March 2009
it must be true, it was in the papers
French police are searching for members of a radical group that has launched three attacks in three weeks on merchants who sell foreign wine. In the latest incident, the activists broke into the Vignerons des Garrigues, a co-operative in Nimes, and emptied eight vats containing 240,000 gallons of wine - the equivalent of 1.2m bottles. The empty vats were daubed with the initials CRAV, standing for Le Comite Regional D'Action Viticole (regional committee for viticultural action). The co-operative was attacked because, although it mostly sells local wine, it buys cheap Spanish wine to sell as low-grade vin de table. Damages are estimated at €600,000.
ezkontza
Six years ago...
- Concorde made its last commercial flight
- the first case of SARS came to light
- Martha Stewart was indicted
- the last ever Volkswagon Type 1 was produced
- UK saw record temperatures reach 38.5C in Kent (temperatures in Paris reach 44C)
- George W was greeted by thousands of protesters in the UK
- England wins the Rugby World Cup
- Porto beat Celtic in the UEFA Cup Final
- Roy Jenkins, Maurice Gibb, Adam Faith, Nina Simone, Gregory Peck, Katharine Hepburn, Sir Denis Thatcher, Johnny Cash, Timothy Treadwell, Bob Monkhouse and Mickey Finn all bid us adieu
Basque of the day:- marriage :: ezkontza
Sunday, 22 March 2009
St Jean de Luz sevillanas
Friday, 20 March 2009
sportscene
To say pelota makes rugby look and feel like ginkana is an understatement. It is a sport that combines the best bits of rugby (the bashing people and deft movements) with squash and tennis. It is also very masculine. The court is roughly five times that of a squash court and four men get locked in with bats, helmets and a hard ball. It is exceedingly fast and I was shattered before we'd completed the first game. Then came the tough stuff. It reminded me of playing rugby at college as we sat having our post match lunch. Within twenty minutes we had sunk four large glasses of red wine, more was forthcoming. No women are permitted into the club and smoking rules are very loose. Although it is a dark bar area seeped in testosterone it is also exceptionally warm and relaxed. I was made to feel very welcome, the Scottish card works well on such occasions, and look forward to future Fridays with much expectation. I do think practice is required before I go back, both fitness and drinking. Time for a lie down.
Basque of the day:- men :: izenaren
Thursday, 19 March 2009
revolting people
- Demands for an increase to the minimum wage
- A reversal on the 50% cap on income tax
- Suspension of public sector job cuts
- Measures to protect employment
Wednesday, 18 March 2009
strike while the sun shines
It may be mere coincidence that France is also enjoying its warmest March in years with solid sun and temperatures exceeding 25C. I have every confidence that everyone who takes action will be doing so in absolute solidarity with those most affected, by sunburn.Mr Sarkozy was quoted today as saying "social issues often heat up in May...it is normal" [even though it's March?]. Some fear that continued and escalating strike action could see a return to extreme riots like those of May 1968 which rocked France and brought about the demise of the de Gaulle government.
Basque of the day:- holiday :: oporrak
Tuesday, 17 March 2009
economic pressures continue to pile on the stress
Monday, 16 March 2009
one for the ladies...
The firemen of St Jean de Luz are now undertaking daily morning training encompassing a run and swim before stretching on the beach. It transpires that my wife is spending as much time ogling the men as she does watching the sun rise over the mountains or the morning sea rolling in from the Atlantic. She reliably tells me that she finds it gives her added motivation. I bet it does. Rather than petty jealousy I am grateful to the firemen. Not only do they do a great job, there are plenty of ladies other than my wife who also enjoy jogging and ogling. They in turn provide me with motivation, it is all give and take.
[please note there is no way I was going to post, let alone take, photos of semi naked firemen, apologies!]
Basque of the day:- motivate :: eragin
Sunday, 15 March 2009
jour des lunatiques
- the French coined the word lunatic [lunatique] from the Latin for moon, 'luna'
- funeral professionals fight to avoid shifts around the full moon citing that there are more deaths around the time of the full moon than at any other
- Basque people still feed their babies medicine to help ward off the worms that are said to affect infant tummies during full moons
- on days around the full moon there are said to be more calls to the police, animal bites, insect stings and babies delivered
- almost half of all suicides allegedly occur during the full moon
- crime is reported to peak at the full moon and the following two days
- Europeans have long believed in 'Lycanthropy', humans turning into animals at the full moon; during the C16 thousands of French people supposedly lived as wolves in the mountains and attacked and ate unwary travellers
- humans and animals are meant to sleep less and be more 'frisky' during the full moon, hence the concept of howling at the moon
Basque of the day:- moon :: ilargi
Saturday, 14 March 2009
the things you see from your balcony
Basque singing is beautiful, the phonetic language truly lends itself to music. Bagare is a lovely song from the region and well worth a listen. Basque of the day:- song :: kanta
Friday, 13 March 2009
modes de lune
Basque of the day:- moon :: ilargi
[Thursday entry]
There are a lot of pigeons in St Jean de Luz. We heard a very disturbing tale relating to their diet. There was an old man who died in his sleep. He was accustomed to sleeping with his window open. He knew few people in town being elderly, foreign and without family. His body lay for five days unaccounted for. A nauseating smell permeated the street. On arrival police noted that much of the face and body had been torn away, and that the plentiful crowds of pigeons in his apartment were looking particularly fat. Gross. Very Hitchcock.
Basque of the day:- pigeon :: urzo
Wednesday, 11 March 2009
jour de nourriture
Basque of the day:- feast :: oturuntza
Tuesday, 10 March 2009
le printemps est arrivé
I now also appreciate why inhabitants of St Jean de Luz are so darned relaxed. When the sun arrives, as it has with considerable gusto, work is very much of secondary importance. Beach living is the main concern. It also probably accounts for why everybody is slim and athletic, one has to look good on the beach. I am now undertaking the mammoth task of trying to fit in.
Basque of the day:- diet :: dieta
Monday, 9 March 2009
toilet talk
Two swans have settled in the port, basking in the spring sunshine. There is something uplifting when the green man brings life back after winter. Not that winter down here is particularly troublesome but fresh shoots and happy wildlife always encourages a smile.
One of our friends had the audicity to suggest I currently look like a large tomato crossed with a red spotlight. Perhaps I enjoyed too much sun yesterday but I shall not hide [thank you P - you know who you are].
A while back I disclosed that I love dogs, hate pooh. Following Germany, Madrid has launched an initiative that will fine owners of dogs who foul the pavements EUR1,500. Interestingly they clearly state that such fouling can be canine or human - there is supposedly a significant 'old-man-taking-a-pee-in-the-bush' problem in the Spanish capital. I think it is a sterling idea. If cats can be litter-trained and babies potty-trained, why can't dogs pooh in designated areas and old men hold onto their bladders a little better?
Basque of the day:- toilet :: komun
Sunday, 8 March 2009
Pyrenees beats the Alps, no contest
Friday, 6 March 2009
I blame the Americans
We awoke this morning to a beach crowded by gigantic sawn logs, plastic containers of US branded DIY products, barrels of liquor and dead fish. I can only surmise that this is the advance party for the imminent invasion. They have clearly offloaded their balast after consulting the cosmos and the storm has eagerly carried materials for makeshift camps, food and beverage onto the beaches to await the troops. This has enabled Admiral Hank to retain enough fuel to carry his men onwards.
St Jean de Luz is on a knife edge. All eyes scan the horizon desperately hoping they won't see the stars and stripes steaming towards them. It is a black day in Basque history.
What other cause for the beach debris could there be? The storm came from the direction of the mid Atlantic, beyond that lies America. We will not go down easily, for now is the time when we few, we happy few, we band of brothers must fight them on the beaches...
Basque of the day:- war :: gerla
Thursday, 5 March 2009
quelle crise?
Basque of the day:- crisis :: krisialdi
Wednesday, 4 March 2009
afternoon tea with the ladies
Following the weekend I had just enjoyed I felt able to cope with another all girl situation. We readily consumed delicious freshly baked cake, drank coffee and discovered exactly who was sleeping with who and other pertinent local gossip. It may be fun drinking beer at the pub but sometimes girls' chat is far more interesting.
I must remember when I come back in my next life to be born in France, children don't have school on Wednesdays and get two hours lunch break on other days. After speaking with Pascale's delightful children I also learned that in French, Shaggy from Scooby-Doo is called Sammy and that there is no word in French for fairy - how impressively macho.
Basque of the day:- gossip :: hitzontzi
Tuesday, 3 March 2009
fine car
Tearing the document open I feared the worse having received one or two such items previously in London. I scanned the usual bureaucratic verbage and honed in on the fine. €11. Previously received manuscripts from London stipulated that if payment were not made within a week the fine would double, usually £35 to £70. Not so in St Jean de Luz. Besides being more moderately priced, transgressors have up to forty five days to make payment. Additionally, no having to send cheques using a postal service that barely works, one simply visits the local tabac and after stumping up the cost of three large chocolate bars the document is stamped twice (one portion is retained by the perpetrator by way of a receipt).
All done and dusted with minimum hassle. Furthermore, all done for considerably less cost than 24 hour parking.
Basque of the day:- municipal police :: udaltzaingo
Monday, 2 March 2009
rehearsals continue
Sunday, 1 March 2009
thankless task
Basque of the day:- yawn :: aharrausi (very much the noise a yawn makes)